FoodNetArchive

Mrs. Lincoln's Boston cook book

1884

Page 127

Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Meat consists of several substances, — fibrine^ alhumen^ gelatine^ fat ^ and the juice of Jlesh, Fihrine exists in the blood and flesh. In the former it is soluble, owing to the alkaline nature of the blood ; it is deposited by the blood, made into flesh, and becomes insoluble flesli-fibrine, and forms the basis or fibre of mus- cular tissue. It is separated into bundles \>y membranes, and into larger separate masses by cellular tissue, in which fat is deposited. Its true color is white ; but the blood in the veins which penetrate everj^ part of the fibre gives it a reddish tinge. This ma}' be seen b}^ washing a piece of lean meat in cold water. The red coloring matter is soon drawn into the water, and the meat is a mass of white fibre. Fibrine is hardened and contracted by intense heat, but softened by moderate and long- continued heat. Meat that has tough fibre should simmer and not boil. Albumen exists in the flesh and in the blood. It is the soluble portion of the flesh. It dissolves in cold water, but hardens in hot water. Gelatine is a peculiar substance found in the tendons The Boston Cook Book. 21 I and gristly parts of flesh, the shin, and the sinewj^ parts about the joints, and in the nutritive parts of bones. It may be dissolved by soaking in cold water, and then boil- ing gentl}^ for several hours. The solution hardens when cold. Gelatine hardens in a dry heat, and such parts of meat as contain it in abundance should be stewed, rather than roasted or broiled. Fat of meat is contained, a good measure of it, in the adipose tissue of almost all flesh which is used as food. It is liquefied by heat, and resolved into various acid and acrid bodies. It is a warmth-giver, and is therefore most appropriately used in cold seasons and climates. The juice of the flesh consists of water, a small propor- tion of albumen, and a mixture of other compounds. It is not the blood, for it still exists after the blood has been withdrawn. It may be obtained b}^ chopping lean meat fine, putting it in a closel}^ covered jar without water, and heating it gradually. If heated above 160°, the albumi- nous matters in it harden and turn brown. The solid residue, consisting of fibres, tissue, etc., is white, tasteless, and inodorous. This separated juice is strong!}^ acid, while the blood is always alkaline. It contains many sub- stances which are very valuable as food, and the savory principle, or ozmazome^ which gives flavor to the meat and causes it to difler in different animals. Meat should always be cooked in such a manner as to retain the largest proportion of this juice. The juice is drawn out into the brine in salting, and this renders salt meat less nutritious. The juice when the water has been separated from it b}' evaporation, is termed extract of meat. The flesh of all young animals is more tender, but not so nutritious as that of maturer animals. Nearly all parts of an animal may be used as food. Meat is in season all the year ; but certain kinds are better at stated times. Pork is good only in autumn and winter ; veal^ in the spring and summer ; venison^ in the winter ; fowls^ in autumn and winter ; lamh^ in the summer and fall ; mutton and beef at any time. 212 The Boston Cook Book. Fig. 15. Diagram of Ox. 1. Tip of Sirloin. 2. Middle of Sirloin. 3. First Cut of Sirloin. 4. Back of Rump.