A handbook of fish cookery

Cockles are deservedly esteemed by the rich, and they have often staved off the pressure of starvation from the poor of our coasts. The limpet is a great favourite with the Irish, while the periwinkle is the poor man's luxury, and the clam enjoys high favour in the United States PART I. Before coming to this important part of our subject, we would like to offer a suggestion (in all courtesy, be it understood) to our friends the fishmongers. Why do they, we would ask, invariably establish themselves on the sunny side of the road ? Surely if any branch of trade requires coolness and shade it is the fish trade, yet how rare an exception to find one so situated. Then we would respectfully draw their attention to their way of handling the fish. Often it receives most unmerciful treatment, being knocked about on the marble slab with a force quite unnecessary. All fish suffer more or less, but delicate fish, such as soles, suffer in this way just as a ripe peach or pear does if subjected to the same treat- ment. The same difference can be detected in the bruised part of fish as in a bruised peach. Also a too liberal pouring on of water is injurious. No doubt the bright and well- washed fish, surrounded with lumps of ice, look far more tempting than the boat-load all smeared with blood, yet the fish would be much better if they did not see fresh water until they are to be dressed at home. In this matter, however, the fishmonger is to a large extent ruled by popular opinion, and if the latter forbids the purchase of fish in their more natural condition, he is perhaps justified in endeavouring to suit the fancy of his customers. In choosing fish care should be taken not to judge too much by first appearances, although, fortunately, fish, if not fresh, soon tells its tale. If the eyes are dull, or the skin and the scales rub off easily, avoid that fish. If the skin is bright, the flesh firm to the touch when pressed between the thumb and finger, you may rely upon its being fresh ; stale fish, or that which has been kept long in ice, is always flabby. One safe general direction for choosing fish may be given in few words, viz., choose the plump ones. A short lish, thick about the shoulders, is much to be preferred to a long thin one. Thick soles, or thick turbots, are far preferable to thin ones. The same with codfish. Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by weight, and those of medium size are best in flavour. There are one or two kinds of fish which are positively improved by being kept a day or two, notably skate and red mullet. Mackerel, on the contrary, is a fish than which none spoils more rapidly. The sole holds a first position among flat fish, and is deservedly esteemed, as its flesh is firm and delicate and very easily digested, hence its great popularity with the sick. It has also the advantage of being obtainable all the year round in good condition. The skin of the back is sometimes dark, sometimes white, varying with the nature of the ground on which the fish feeds. Soles vary in size from quite little slips, called tongues," to large fish weighing eight or nine pounds per pair. Those in roe are rather