Often before the Central Market closes, first-rate cod is to be had for tv^opence the pound — a seven-pound cod for a shilling. Plentiful and wholesome as cod is, it is seldom much thought of by poor people. Salted, sun-dried cod, is thought beneath notice, although large quantities are consumed on the continent, and some very dainty dishes made therefrom. Plaice, too, generally to be had at four- pence the pound, is but lightly esteemed. Humble Londoners care most for smoked fish, something that has a grip with it," they say. To meet this demand many adulterations are practised by the cockney curer. Haddocks are often but indifferent codling. The Finnan Haddie^ " was caught in the Scheldt, and Stavanger herrings are passed off as Yar- mouth bloaters. Unwholesome common lobsters, winkles, and whelks, are preferred to good sub- stantial fish, and, as before stated, igno- rance of the proper methods of cooking is most frequently the reason of this. Where late dinners, with people of small incomes, are coming more into 4 INTRODUCTION. favour, it is found an economy, as it is also considered the correct thing," to have a course of fish. Indeed, as an economical article of diet, fish has few rivals. Many people who really would enjoy eating it are debarred from doing so by its being invariably badly cooked, or pre- sented always in the same monotonous dress. Phosphorus being essential for brain food, and as analysis has proved fish to contain a greater amount than almost any other article of diet, it is the more valu- able still on this account. The fish which afford the most nourish- ment are the kinds which most resemble meat, as salmon, mackerel, &c. ; turbot and halibut, though strictly belonging to the 'lighter" order, are very nourishing on account of the amount of meat which they bear in proportion to bone. The whiter kinds of fish are the most easily digestible, as soles or cod, whiting, &c., and some kinds of river fish, notably perch. With the exception of trout — and per- haps pike — fresh-water fish are less esteemed than they deserve to be. INTRODUCTION. 5 Salmon is sometimes called a river fish, though genuinely it is not so, as, although born in the river, the sea is its home and natural sphere. In Parisian restaurants many dainty dishes are prepared from fish caught in the Seine ; and in country places where sea-v^ater fish is often difficult to obtain, the ponds and rivers will often furnish excellent substitutes. All fresh- water fish — with the exception of trout — is at its best in winter-time. Shell-fish, perfectly harmless in them- selves as they may be, exemplify the say- ing that ''what is one man's meat is another man's poison accordingly, where they are found to disagree they should be strictly avoided. Oysters, the most highly esteemed of shell-fish, are frequently ordered by the physician when it is desirable to unite great nourishment with easy digestion, the amount of gluten they contain giving them this valuable quality. Lobsters are popularly considered to be the least harmful next to oysters, and the flesh of a fresh crab is both delicate and delicious. Shrimps, prawns, and crayfish, should 6 INTRODUCTION. properly rank as relishes ; they are extremely useful in savoury dishes, either with or without other lish.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Often before the Central Market closes, first-rate cod is to be had for twopence the pound — a seven-pound cod for a shilling. Plentiful and wholesome as cod is, it is seldom much thought of by poor people. Salted, sun-dried cod, is thought beneath notice, although large quantities are consumed on the continent, and some very dainty dishes made therefrom. Plaice, too, generally to be had at fourpence the pound, is but lightly esteemed. Humble Londoners care most for smoked fish, something that has a grip with it," they say. To meet this demand many adulterations are practised by the cockney curer. Haddocks are often but indifferent codling. The Finnan Haddie^ " was caught in the Scheldt, and Stavanger herrings are passed off as Yarmouth bloaters. Unwholesome common lobsters, winkles, and whelks, are preferred to good substantial fish, and, as before stated, ignorance of the proper methods of cooking is most frequently the reason of this. Where late dinners, with people of small incomes, are coming more into favour, it is found an economy, as it is also considered the correct thing," to have a course of fish. Indeed, as an economical article of diet, fish has few rivals. Many people who really would enjoy eating it are debarred from doing so by its being invariably badly cooked, or presented always in the same monotonous dress. Phosphorus being essential for brain food, and as analysis has proved fish to contain a greater amount than almost any other article of diet, it is the more valuable still on this account. The fish which afford the most nourishment are the kinds which most resemble meat, as salmon, mackerel, &c. ; turbot and halibut, though strictly belonging to the 'lighter" order, are very nourishing on account of the amount of meat which they bear in proportion to bone. The whiter kinds of fish are the most easily digestible, as soles or cod, whiting, &c., and some kinds of river fish, notably perch. With the exception of trout — and perhaps pike — fresh-water fish are less esteemed than they deserve to be. Salmon is sometimes called a river fish, though genuinely it is not so, as, although born in the river, the sea is its home and natural sphere. In Parisian restaurants many dainty dishes are prepared from fish caught in the Seine ; and in country places where sea-water fish is often difficult to obtain, the ponds and rivers will often furnish excellent substitutes. All fresh- water fish — with the exception of trout — is at its best in winter-time. Shell-fish, perfectly harmless in themselves as they may be, exemplify the saying that ''what is one man's meat is another man's poison accordingly, where they are found to disagree they should be strictly avoided. Oysters, the most highly esteemed of shell-fish, are frequently ordered by the physician when it is desirable to unite great nourishment with easy digestion, the amount of gluten they contain giving them this valuable quality. Lobsters are popularly considered to be the least harmful next to oysters, and the flesh of a fresh crab is both delicate and delicious. Shrimps, prawns, and crayfish, should properly rank as relishes ; they are extremely useful in savoury dishes, either with or without other lish.

A handbook of fish cookery