FoodNet

The art of living in Australia

1893

Page 83

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The cardinal difference, and one which stands out in bold relief, is that the Austrahan food habits are characterised by a preponderancy of meat diet and a corresponding neglect of vegetable products. On the other hand, the dietary of Southern Europe is in rational harmony with its climate, H 2 116 THE ART OF LIVING IN AUSTRALIA. and there is not that insensate insistence of a highly nitrogenous animal fare to the exclusion of all else. The striking features, then, in connection with the Australian dietary are this extraordinary consumption of meat and the faith which is presumably attached to its food value. It is no exaggeration to say that the vast majority of our people believe implicitly in the necessity for meat at their three daily meals, and not only is this the case in the cooler parts of the year, but it is practised universally during the height of the summer, without being modified in the slightest degree. Thus the student of ethnography is presented with the somewhat curious anomaly of a people living in a sum- mer temperature of 70° or 80° in the shade, eating more meat than do the bulk of the inhabitants of Great Britain and Ireland (with their ice and snow) during their winter months. It is one of the characteristics of the Anglo-Saxon race, however, this inability to appreciate the necessity of conforming to new climatic conditions in which their lot may be cast. It will be the same, too, when the British restaurant-keeper begins business in Equatorial Africa. For an absolute certainty his bill-of-fare for the delectation of the unfortunate colonist will consist of roast beef, York- shire pudding, plum pudding, and the old familiar throng. Whether mine host has to consult the taste of his client, or whether the latter has simply to accept what is proffered, is not absolutely decided ; probably they are both imbued with a belief in the necessity of solid fare, regarding it as a solemn truth beyond all possibility of cavil. This abuse of flesh food in a climate like Australia would be serious enough under any circumstances, but it is in- tensified and aggravated by the direct unoriginality in deal- ing with meat. Is it not a fact that there is no attempt whatever made to break through the conventional chain of joints, roasted or boiled, and the inevitable grill or fry ? FOOD HABITS AND THEIR FAULTS. 117 In how many houses does the breakfast ever consist of any- thing but the ubiquitous chops, steaks, or sausages ? indeed, one might almost term them "the faith, hope, and charity" of domestic hfe. I remember reading some little time ago that if a map of the world were made in which lands of utter darkness were coloured black like the coalfields in an atlas of physical geography, certain races would be signalised by their opaqueness. If such a map were ever compiled, Australia would of necessity be characterised by blackness ; such a blackness, indeed, that jet itself would be as somvy white beside it. But why should this lamentable state of things be said of Austrahans, who claim to be pro- gressive in their ideas and advanced in their views, usages, and customs ?