FoodNet

The art of living in Australia

1893

Page 118

Presented as published in 1893. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
lamb's lettuce, there are one or two other salad plants which require a brief notice. Now, as far as celery and radishes are concerned, we may be said to be fairly well off ; but the same is not the case mth mustard, with garden cress, or even with watercress. The latter is to be obtained from John Chinaman, it is true ; but it is curious that in Aus- tralia we see none of the watercress vendors so familiar in the streets of the old country. Yet there is really a good living to be made out of it, and its use would prove of benefit to hundreds of families, as with a little salt it makes an ex(Jiiisite sandwich between two thin pieces of bread-and- butter. A wise physician. Dr. T. K. Chambers, uttered a great truth when he remarked that the pale faces and bad teeth which characterised many of the inhabitants of cities were due to their inability to obtain a proper supply of fresh green vegetables, and that thus the watercress-seller was one of the saviours of her country. So great is the demand for watercress in New York when it first comes in that the prices range from 2s. to 4s. for a basket holding only three quarts. At this rate an acre of watercress under cultivation would represent almost a fortune. Of course all watercress should be thoroughly washed and then dried in a towel, like the lettuce for the salad, before it is eaten. Lastly, it must never be used from a source where any sewage contamination is suspected. Now, although these different forms of salad plants are not cultivated to any considerable extent, yet when we come to inquire into the salad herbs, we find that they are not grown at all, and indeed they are practically unknown. They constitute, however, the crowning grace of a proper salad, and confer upon it a delicacy which is unrivalled, and thus it is that any traveller will tell you that a salad in France tastes so infinitely better than one elsewhere. Now, these salad herbs are readily grown, and do not require any 172 THE ART OF LIVING IN AUSTRALIA. care in tlieir cultivation, so that there is no opportunity for excuse on that score. In order, however, to prevent this paper becoming too diffuse, I must confine my remarks to those salad herbs which it is almost imjwssible to do without — that is, if we wish to have any salads worth speak- ing of. It will be convenient, for this purpose, to refer to the word " ravigote " ; and by this term is meant a col- lection of four herbs, namely — burnet, chervil, chives, and tarragon. As has been already mentioned, each of these herbs, chopped up very finely, is usually placed in a little heap by itself on the one plate, and from these four heaps is selected whatever is required for the salad. This invariably forms the garniture of any lettuce salad, whether cal)bage or cos, and also of the Batavian endive, though, as we have already seen, the curly endive is best suited with the chapon — i.e., the crust of bread rubbed over with a garlic clove. The very derivation of the word "ravigote," from the French verb ravigotei; to cheer or strengthen, shows that certain exhilarating virtues are ascribed to these herbs.