A manual of home-making

In general, the front line of the crown should continue the Une of the forehead (Figs. 107-109). At the back, the line should not extend beyond tlie hair. If the hair extends far beyond the head, the back line of the crown should fall between the contour of the hair and the head. In no case should the back Mna of the crown fall in- side the line of the head. The tarn o'shanter crown should lx*ar at its base the same relation to the hea<l as should any other crown. _,__.^ A turban should he placed well on the head, not allowed to hang off at the back (Fig, 111), and thus destroy the balance of the %vhole figure. Brims are intended as a protection for the eyes, but they are usually extended at the sides and the back for balance. The brim of a hat should not unrler Fio. 109,— Correct piarinK j^^jy circum^stances extend beyond the hL^.i'lb^^^^^ shoulders. A brim may }ye tilted in any becoming way if the balance of the hat is not destroyed or if the balance is restored by the use of trimming. A brim should not be so drooping that the eye- brows are covered, or so upturned that a becoming shadow for the face m lost* Fkk 108. — lomrrwt site of crown. T h e crown should be sufficiently large to be aet well down on t h e bead; otherwiae. the hat may ap|>ear to be inseciijiely placed as here shown. I 396 A UANVAh OF HOME-MAKING mm Hat« of fftraw and other light*weight textures may be larger than ttiose of velvet and other heav>' materials, A hat that is li^t in color always haa the effect of being larger than a dark _ one of the same ose. If a dark hat b desired and dark colojis are unbecoming, the hat may be faced with a light color. Line and form. Already exaggerated features or un* desirable lines of the face should not be accented by a pronounced repetition ^ of the direction of these lines in the Pio. iJO,^Th<« prominf'fit hat. For example, if there are heavy hJ^'^utllt downward lines atout the mouth. Uie UiMM of Oie f»rc. If it brim of the hat should not repeat these il H!!'™^*?. ^ . *^''*' ^^ (Fig- 112). Again, if the eyes slant be bant an dwirt^d, ^P toward the outer comer, a hat with but tlM crown should an abrupt upward curve of the brim Sbc 1^. '****'^'^ "" should not l>e worn. The effect may be neutralized by the use of opposing lines. The opposition, however, must not be carried too far, because entire lack of hamiony in line wiU produce the same effect as does strong parallelLsni of line. _ A person with a square face needs an irregular brim, liecaui^ a straight brim only emphasizes by contrast the angles of the face. A round face or one of regular features requires the opposite treatment from the square face. A severe, straight lirim or upstanding crown may be worn in this case. An oval face needs a curved, irregular line* Rather long curves are most suitable. In order to be practicable, these auggestions necessitate that the hair be arranged to suit the face. Moreover, when buying a hat, one should be sure that it does not require a special arrange- Fro. 111. — Correct placinc of 9. tiirban abowa by th<? hcmvy Urn?. MILUNBHY 397