A manual of home-making

Darninp; is the repairing of cloth by the weaving in of threads to replace torn or worn warp and woof threads. Knitted fabrics, also, are mcntleti in this way. Dar-ning is a less conspicuous method of repairing than patching, although on garments which are subjected to very hard wear or to much laundering, it is not so satisfactory. In woolen garments darning is usually pref- erable to patching, since it is less bulky and woolen clothes are not so often laundered. * Ext. Circ. 14, Coll of A-r., Univ. of 111. 390 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKISG To make the dam as inconspicuoui^ as poesible, a raveling of the matmal is u^ccl, or if this is not .strong enough, a silk thread 18 tipiit into thirdi*, and one of the^ strands is use<l. When only one set of threads has l)een severed, whether it U* warp or woof, this set alone needs to be suppEed, If both warp and woof are broken, they must both l>e woven in. The stitch which is used ifi a shorty loose running si itch, and, a^ far as possible, the darn- ing h done on the wrong side. The edges of the tear must be neiitly joined together by passing over and under them in the alternate rows of sewing. The distance which the stitches are carried outside the tear depends on the strength of the surround- ing material. If it is very much worn, the darning must be made to cover the thin places. To form a guide for the darning stitches, a basting thread should be nm just outside the area to be darned. Tlie three forms of tears which most often occur are straight, diagonal, and three-cornered, vr hedge. Sometimes there is a hole which is too large for ordinary' darning, and it can be re- paired best by placing a patch underneath and darning the edges down over it. The method of repairing these tears follows: Sirai^hl (ear. — The tmr rnay he acroes either warp or woof tbreftdB, so the tniasing ones t^hould Im woven in. Start the nmniJig stitehcs ba tmr Above the cut, and carry them as far beyond, as it is neceaaary, in order to reinforee the worn part. When the te4vr is reached, pass over and under the two edgi'is in alternating rows, «o that they are firmly held logiethisr* lie very eArefvil not to draw the threads too tightly aa this will cftuae a puekenM^l »ppe&maoc. Bias or diagonal Uar. — la n bins or diagonal tear lx>th ttic warp and woof threadrt are Hcvcrcxl, and so they must be supplic*d. The runnini^ stitchos iihotild follow the warp and wr^jf thn*a<l;4 of the eloth, not pl?ie<Hl at right angles to the cut. The wnrp threads shrmltl be put in iirst as far lieyond the t-ear as ne<i.»8Hjtry, and the woof threads then woven in. llic woof threiidfl may be hiid faritHT apart than the warp. As this tear is oa the bias, ca.re nmst Im^ lustxl not to stretch it. Thrce-cfnyitrfxi or hedge (fOf. — In the threenximcred tear, also, both the warji and the woof threads are severed, but not often on the bias. The daminic is tirsit done following the wartJ threads fn>m one end to the eomer^ then the woof ihreada are replaced in the «ame manner. At the eiirner^ there wdl be a sqtuut» dam where the supplied warp and wtxif threads riiottld ix? intirrlaced. I I L A THE MAKING OF CLOTHING 391