3. Fell or felled Beam, a flat, smooth seam. There are various kinds of
fells:
A hemmed fell (Fig. 89) may be ui^ed in handmade garments. A plain
seam is made on the wnmg side, One edge is trimmed narrower than
the other, and the wider edge is ere^is^-d over the narrower. The seam is
then laid f!at and the folded edge hemmed down to the material.
A glitched fell is a tjiilorf^d seam. A plain «eam ih mwt^l on the right sitle.
One edge is trimmed narrower than the other. The seam is laid flat and
basted and stiteht'd down to the materiaL
A flannel fell (Fig. 91) i.s Ui^ed in flannel garments. A plain seam is
sewed on the wrong side. One edge m trimmed narro\teT than the other.
The seam is laid fiat and the n\w edge eateh-stitehed down to the materiaL
A standing fell is us^hI to rt(nv a gutheretl edge to a plain c?flge. The
gathered edge is first sewed to t he plain edge in a plain seam on the wrong
374
A MANUAL or HOMEMAKlNa
m
no. M^FUa Mua with
Ffeo. 87.— Plain
Left, pinked
1
Fio. 88.— French seam.
Fio. 80.— Hemmed fell.
Fio. 90. — Overhandcd or French fell.
Fio. 91.— Flannel fell.
side of the material, the plain edge extending beyond the gathered edge
and the line of stitching coming on the line of gathering. A narrow fold
is made on the plain edge and folded a second time so that the first folded
edge just covers the line of stitching. It is then basted and hemmed or
ititched into place.
THE MAKING OF CWTHING
Uses of seams on undergarmerUs,
Undergamients ma}^ be made with varioys kinds of seams:
For a cor.set-covcr or combination, the uiider-arm and shoulder
searas may be hemmed fells, stitched fells, or French seams;
for drawers and bloomers, the seams of the leg: and crotch may
be hemmed fells, stitched fells, or I'Vench seams; for a night-
gown, the imder'arm seam and the seatn of the sleeve may be
henmied fells, stitched fells, or French seams, the armhole
seam may be a plain 8eam bound, or seam beading may be
used with a standing fell and French seam, or a stitched fell
may be used in men's nightshirts; for a white cotton undei'^kiii:.,
a stitched fell or a French seam may be used; for a sateen or
silk underskirt, a stitched fell, or a French seam may be used,
or the edges of a plain seam may be overcast, bound, or opened,
turned under, and stitched; for a flannel underskirt., a flannel
fell may be used, or a plain seam may be opened and each
edge catch-stitched down to the garment.
Top finishes for carset^oper^ combinationj or gown. (Platea
XIV and XV).
The fullness at the top of corset-covers, combinations, or
gowDfi may be arranged by :
Page 212
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3. Fell or felled Beam, a flat, smooth seam. There are various kinds of
fells:
A hemmed fell (Fig. 89) may be ui^ed in handmade garments. A plain
seam is made on the wnmg side, One edge is trimmed narrower than
the other, and the wider edge is ere^is^-d over the narrower. The seam is
then laid f!at and the folded edge hemmed down to the material.
A glitched fell is a tjiilorf^d seam. A plain «eam ih mwt^l on the right sitle.
One edge is trimmed narrower than the other. The seam is laid flat and
basted and stiteht'd down to the materiaL
A flannel fell (Fig. 91) i.s Ui^ed in flannel garments. A plain seam is
sewed on the wrong side. One edge m trimmed narro\teT than the other.
The seam is laid fiat and the n\w edge eateh-stitehed down to the materiaL
A standing fell is us^hI to rt(nv a gutheretl edge to a plain c?flge. The
gathered edge is first sewed to t he plain edge in a plain seam on the wrong
374
A MANUAL or HOMEMAKlNa
m
no. M^FUa Mua with
Ffeo. 87.— Plain
Left, pinked
1
Fio. 88.— French seam.
Fio. 80.— Hemmed fell.
Fio. 90. — Overhandcd or French fell.
Fio. 91.— Flannel fell.
side of the material, the plain edge extending beyond the gathered edge
and the line of stitching coming on the line of gathering. A narrow fold
is made on the plain edge and folded a second time so that the first folded
edge just covers the line of stitching. It is then basted and hemmed or
ititched into place.
THE MAKING OF CWTHING
Uses of seams on undergarmerUs,
Undergamients ma}^ be made with varioys kinds of seams:
For a cor.set-covcr or combination, the uiider-arm and shoulder
searas may be hemmed fells, stitched fells, or French seams;
for drawers and bloomers, the seams of the leg: and crotch may
be hemmed fells, stitched fells, or I'Vench seams; for a night-
gown, the imder'arm seam and the seatn of the sleeve may be
henmied fells, stitched fells, or French seams, the armhole
seam may be a plain 8eam bound, or seam beading may be
used with a standing fell and French seam, or a stitched fell
may be used in men's nightshirts; for a white cotton undei'^kiii:.,
a stitched fell or a French seam may be used; for a sateen or
silk underskirt, a stitched fell, or a French seam may be used,
or the edges of a plain seam may be overcast, bound, or opened,
turned under, and stitched; for a flannel underskirt., a flannel
fell may be used, or a plain seam may be opened and each
edge catch-stitched down to the garment.
Top finishes for carset^oper^ combinationj or gown. (Platea
XIV and XV).
The fullness at the top of corset-covers, combinations, or
gowDfi may be arranged by :