1. Valenciennes, or ^' Val/* a fine cotton lace made by hand and iDijUU*d
by tnucliine. It may bo made with a round mesh, German V*al; a diamond
mcyh, French Val; or a square mesh, FiHel Val. Valcnciennra bees arc>
suitable for nainaook or fine linen iinderjjarment-s, Vuit thi»y do ni>t w*^ar
very well when used with heavier materials. In g:enerat, round and diamond
mesh lac<^ wear better than do srjuiire nieHb hiw^.
2. Cluny» a Unc^n hvee made by hand and imitated by machine, varying;
in fineness of thread and design. Cluny hu-es are suitable for nainauok,
linpn^ and cambric underRarment^; the heaviiT qualities may be um?d on
heavier material^i. They are very durable,
3. Torchon, a linen lace made by hand and machine, suiiuble for aU
kinds of undergarments and verj' durable,
4- Crochet, a handmade lace of cotton or linen thread of varying d<*-
grees of fincncaa. Certain typical patterns made in Ireland are called Irish
crochet. Crocheted laces are suitable for fine undergannents when made
of fine thread and in dainty design. Clumsy, coarse ynkes and edges of
fKKir design are unattnictivr% particularly when f?een through sheer outer
garment*!; they are too rough to tie comfortable when used (m a nightgown.
5. Fillet, a squar*^m»»sh, linen, handmade lace, imitated by machine.
It is suitable for fine underjcanncnts.
fi. Footing, a net trimming with finished edges like insertion. It is
BUitablo for casings on fine underwear.
Tatting h a hand triniming made with a .shuttle from thread
of varying degrees of fineness. It is an attractive trimming for
simple undergarments.
Embroideries (edges, ifhsertioJiff, headings), — Embroideries of
various kinds are suitable for any tyije of undergarment. Entre-
deux is a f?eam l>eading.
Bias hands, bindings, and faeings, — Plain, inexf>ensivc« dur-
able trimnung may he made of bias bands, bindings antt faeing!^
Braj'd.— Feathers* itfljed finishing braid or seallrjj>ed bniid
makes a simple, eflfeetive trimming for plain utulergarmcnti^.
I
THE MAKING OF CWTHING
373
Hand tnihroiflenj, — French embroidery, or satin stitch, and
dpporLLtive .stitrhes, such tis featherstitchiiig, chainstitehifi|):.
and the likc% may iw used on fine hneii or nainsook undergar-
ments when time is not an object.
Machine hemMitching, — Maeliine hem.stiteliing Ls effective
for sewing in yokes, holding gathei-s in place, and the hke» It
is done at most sew^ing machine agencies for a small price a
yai'd.
Construction of undergarments
Before making undergarments, a gootl commercial pattern
of the correct size should be bought, and the amount of material
that the pattern directs purchased. The directions should be
read carefully, and the garment cut accordingly. The gar-
ment must be basted and fitted carefully, liecause patterns are
not exactly correct for every type of figure.
Seams suitable for undergarments.
The following kinds of seams are suitable for undergarments:
1. Pkiiti »('ani (FigHi. 86, 87 )j tho joining of two efl^es with one row
of Hlitchinji^. The edges may be firiishc*(i by overcaslin^ Omhtj loKcHher or
aeiiiirate, Ijy binding them together or se{mnitOj or by turnmg them under
uml stitching tlicm.
2. French seam (FiR. 88) » a seam within a seam. A narrow «eam is
sewed on ttie right-side of Ihe guniient, then turned to the wrong side,
and a seeond ntif ehin^ made jui^t far enough from the edge to conceal the
raw edges nf the first s*mm.
Page 211
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AI-modernized reading of the original text
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1. Valenciennes, or ^' Val/* a fine cotton lace made by hand and iDijUU*d
by tnucliine. It may bo made with a round mesh, German V*al; a diamond
mcyh, French Val; or a square mesh, FiHel Val. Valcnciennra bees arc>
suitable for nainaook or fine linen iinderjjarment-s, Vuit thi»y do ni>t w*^ar
very well when used with heavier materials. In g:enerat, round and diamond
mesh lac<^ wear better than do srjuiire nieHb hiw^.
2. Cluny» a Unc^n hvee made by hand and imitated by machine, varying;
in fineness of thread and design. Cluny hu-es are suitable for nainauok,
linpn^ and cambric underRarment^; the heaviiT qualities may be um?d on
heavier material^i. They are very durable,
3. Torchon, a linen lace made by hand and machine, suiiuble for aU
kinds of undergarments and verj' durable,
4- Crochet, a handmade lace of cotton or linen thread of varying d<*-
grees of fincncaa. Certain typical patterns made in Ireland are called Irish
crochet. Crocheted laces are suitable for fine undergannents when made
of fine thread and in dainty design. Clumsy, coarse ynkes and edges of
fKKir design are unattnictivr% particularly when f?een through sheer outer
garment*!; they are too rough to tie comfortable when used (m a nightgown.
5. Fillet, a squar*^m»»sh, linen, handmade lace, imitated by machine.
It is suitable for fine underjcanncnts.
fi. Footing, a net trimming with finished edges like insertion. It is
BUitablo for casings on fine underwear.
Tatting h a hand triniming made with a .shuttle from thread
of varying degrees of fineness. It is an attractive trimming for
simple undergarments.
Embroideries (edges, ifhsertioJiff, headings), — Embroideries of
various kinds are suitable for any tyije of undergarment. Entre-
deux is a f?eam l>eading.
Bias hands, bindings, and faeings, — Plain, inexf>ensivc« dur-
able trimnung may he made of bias bands, bindings antt faeing!^
Braj'd.— Feathers* itfljed finishing braid or seallrjj>ed bniid
makes a simple, eflfeetive trimming for plain utulergarmcnti^.
I
THE MAKING OF CWTHING
373
Hand tnihroiflenj, — French embroidery, or satin stitch, and
dpporLLtive .stitrhes, such tis featherstitchiiig, chainstitehifi|):.
and the likc% may iw used on fine hneii or nainsook undergar-
ments when time is not an object.
Machine hemMitching, — Maeliine hem.stiteliing Ls effective
for sewing in yokes, holding gathei-s in place, and the hke» It
is done at most sew^ing machine agencies for a small price a
yai'd.
Construction of undergarments
Before making undergarments, a gootl commercial pattern
of the correct size should be bought, and the amount of material
that the pattern directs purchased. The directions should be
read carefully, and the garment cut accordingly. The gar-
ment must be basted and fitted carefully, liecause patterns are
not exactly correct for every type of figure.
Seams suitable for undergarments.
The following kinds of seams are suitable for undergarments:
1. Pkiiti »('ani (FigHi. 86, 87 )j tho joining of two efl^es with one row
of Hlitchinji^. The edges may be firiishc*(i by overcaslin^ Omhtj loKcHher or
aeiiiirate, Ijy binding them together or se{mnitOj or by turnmg them under
uml stitching tlicm.
2. French seam (FiR. 88) » a seam within a seam. A narrow «eam is
sewed on ttie right-side of Ihe guniient, then turned to the wrong side,
and a seeond ntif ehin^ made jui^t far enough from the edge to conceal the
raw edges nf the first s*mm.