A manual of home-making

AftTcorized cotton is cloth produced by the action of a strong alkali on cotton fiber rinsed under tension. The process of mercerization is generally carried on while the fiber is still in the yarn. Mercerized cotton is actually stronger than cotton which lias not been so treateti. The c:haract eristic twist of the cotton fiber is taken out, and t.hc cell-wall is thickened by eon- traction. The result is a stronger fiber, a long slender cylinder which reflects the light, rather than a flat twisted, riblK>n-like filanient. The cellulose of the fiber is changed into another kind of chemical substance wliich has a much greater affinity for dye substances; therefore, beautiful colorings may be found in mercerized cotton materials. Tlie cost of producing a high grade of mercerized cotton, it has been stated, is about three times that of immercerized cot- ton; cons{*quently if a piece of this material is offered at a very low price, it is well to test it for true mercerization before buy- ing. This may l:>e done l>y tiioroughly washing a sample or ex- posing it to friction and the weather. The gloss of properly mercerized material will not disappear on hard wear or launder- ing. An im if at ion of mercerized cotton may be made by the action I I I I 310 A MANUAL OF HOME-MAKINC of very heavy and very hot cylinders on ordinary cotton cloth. This imitation will not withstand friction or laimdcriog. SUmdarfl ajU4tn materials* Standard cotton nintcritds such as niiLstin.s, orj<unclic\s, per- cales, calicoes, and sheetings differ only in the wei|i?lit of the material, fineness of thready hardness nf (wist, and method of finish, (linKhams have the thread dyed before weaving and fancy weavers are frequently used- Dock, denim, and sonie other heavy materials have very hard twisted threads and are frequently woven with a twill. Silkolene is a trade name for a fine cotton cloth with a silky finish given after the cloth is woven. Mercerized cottons make lustrous materials, such as poplin, imitation |x>nKee, and numerous attractive house-fur- nisJiing materials, India linon is entirely cotton, as are outing flannel and canton flanneL Miiny tussjihs, voiles/ and economy linens and other materials with rather deceptive names are cot- ton materials made to imitate silk, wool, or Iiul'M. Uses of coUon materiah. Cotton filler is covered by cotton wax, which serves as a pro- tective coat and renders cotton material very slow in absorb- ing water. For this rea^son, cotton dish-towels are unsatis- factory. If a cloth to absorb moisture is desired^ it must l>e made of a filx^r that is not water-repellent. In absorl)ent cotton the wax has been removed. Cotton is light in weight anfl inexpensive and affords a muM desirable fabric for general wear. It is esj>eciallv desirable for undergarments an*l house dress<^, since it is not impairfxl by frequent laundering. Starch is absorbe<^l by the cotton filx^rs as readily in the process of laundering as at the time of manu- facture. It is, therefore, possible to keep the garments as fresh as when new. Cotton fabrics shrink for the first few times that they are laundered. The jx^rcenlage of shrinkage varit>s with tlie tyiK* of liber and tlie method tjf manufacture of tlie niaterial. A loosely woven matexial will often shrink more than a closely woven piece. • Opm cU. TEXTILES 311 Some of tlie more common cotton materials are as follows: