Baking Fish Au Gratin
From A handbook of fish cookery, 1897
Always serve au gratin dishes in the cooking dish.
Presented as published in 1897. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation below, not the original instructions.
A modern interpretation · AI-generated from the original record
Ingredients
Method
As published
This recipe was extracted from A handbook of fish cookery (1897) by Lucy H. Yates, page 5. The excerpt below is the record exactly as published.
the fish over ; beware of sticking a fork into it. There can be no doubt that THE COOKING OF FISH. IQ grilling brings out a flavour which nothing else will. What can surpass a fresh mackerel, grilled after being split open and boned ? An important point to bear in mind in this method of cookery is, to keep in the flavour, A slice of grilled salmon will taste far nicer if the slice has been wrapped in buttered paper ; but cooking anything in paper requires the greatest care, as should there be the least flare the paper will catch fire, — what is required is a fierce heat. When baking fish en papillot^ that is wrapped in buttered paper, the chief thing to bear in mind is not to spare the butter. This, one of the most delicate and delicious ways of cooking fish, is apt to be entirely spoilt, because only a little dab of butter is allowed. When fish has been cooked in paper it should be sent to table just as it is, paper and all. Always use plain white note paper, never printed. In boiling fish a very common fault is omitting to put sufficient salt into the water. In the case of large fish, salt should be added in the proportion of half a pound to a gallon of water ] for smaller 20 THE COOKING OF FISH. fish, a proportion of a quarter-pound to the gallon is sufficient. It is now generally thought best to place fish in nearly boiling water, then allow it to come gently to the boiling point again, this keeps in the flavour on the same principle as the boiling of meat. The time allowed depends entirely on the size of the fish, but when the flesh shows signs of being just able to be separated from the bone, it is amply done. Experience is the only safe guide. To preserve the whiteness of white fish, it is wise to rub them over with lemon- juice before boiling. One method of boiling fish, when it is intended for eating cold, which is much approved of on the Continent, is to do it in court-bouillon," and if fresh-water fish be cooked this way it is relieved of much of its insipidity. One part of vinegar, one part of red wine, to four parts of water, for the bouillon." To two quarts of the hquor put an ounce of salt, half an ounce of pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, a sliced onion and a carrot. Sometimes a small piece of salt bacon is also added. Let these all boil together for some time, then THE COOKING OF FISH. 21 strain the liquor and keep in a stone jar. It will keep a long time if occasionally re-boiled. The fish should be well covered with the liquid when laid in the fish-kettle, and allowed to boil gradually. To fry fish successfully it should be literally boiled in fat. This cannot be done over a slow or smoky fire, neither can it be done unless an abundance of fat be allowed. It is not an extravagant method, even if the pan be a large one, and it takes two or three pounds to fill it. If carefully poured into a basin containing boiling water after the fish has been cooked, the loose breadcrumbs and other particles will fall to the bottom, and the fat form a clear white crust. When due care is exercised there is no reason why the same fat should not be used fifty times over. Let it be quite boiling when the fish is put in. This may be known by its perfect stillness and the faint blue vapour which will rise from it. When the fish has been washed and carefully dried, flour it before dipping into beaten egg, and use brown raspings in preference to breadcrumbs. Lay a small piece of blotting-paper at 22 THE COOKING OF FISH. the bottom of the dish to absorb all grease. Various recipes for baking fish are given in the following pages. Perhaps one of the nicest ways of doing fish in the oven is au gratin. Briefly described, this consists of a layer of mixed herbs and breadcrumbs laid first at the bottom of a well-buttered dish, the fish laid on this, then the same ingredients with seasoning and more butter
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