Should small tables be used, the hostess may preside over a tray placed upon one of them,* or, when it seems more convenient, the cups may be filled outside, and passed to each with the cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl. It saves some delay in serving if there are a cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl on each table. These little tables may be covered with small cloths or large napkins, and need have noth- ing else upon them beyond the necessary furniture for each place, except, perhaps, a 18 . 273 WHAT TO EAT — HOW TO SEBYE IT vase of flowers. While small tables are often admirable as accommodating more people with comfort than could be seated at a large table, yet the latter gives opportunity for a prettier display of floral decoration, china, silver, etc., than is afforded by the former. The bill of fare is easily arranged. There are no raw oysters or clams, as at a lunch or dinner ; and while bouillon may be provided, it is not at all necessary. The meal may be- gin with oysters in some form, as fricasseed, fried, broiled, steamed, or panned, or in cro- quettes. With them are passed bread-and butter (brown or graham bread cut thin is good with oysters) or rolls. The plates are then removed, and the next course brought in. This maj^ consist of chicken — broiled or fried — or broiled birds, or French chops, and of potatoes in some form, as d la parisienne^ French fried, or hashed with cream and browned. Cold tongue or ham is sometimes also passed at this time, and warm bread in some shape, as French rolls, sally-lunn, tea- biscuit, rusk, or waffles. The coffee or choc- 274 HIGH TEA olate is also served at this stage in the pro- ceedings. After this course comes a salad — ^lettuce and tomato mayonnaise, or chicken, lobster, or salmon — fresh plates being served for this, as a matter of course. Olives and some fan- cy cheese — Brie, Roquefort, or Gorgonzola — usually come with the salad. Cheese at this stage is strongly recommended by the epi- cure ; but it is not essential, except to those who hold, in the words of the old doggerel, that " A dinner (or supper) without cheese Is like a kiss without a squeeze." The table is now cleared, and the dessert brought in. This may be quite simple, as, say, preserved or brandied fruit with fancy cakes✪ High Tea ; or it may be more elaborate, and com- prise jelly, charlotte-russe, or fresh fruit of some kind, and light cakes. Ices are not strictly en regle^ although no canon of taste is seriously offended if they are offered. It is better, however, to serve them later in the evening. Still, they are not essential even then. Finger-bowls set on doilies laid on 275 WHAT TO EAT — HOW TO SEBVE IT pretty plates must be passed the last thing before the guests quit the table. Of course the inenu suggested above may be altered to suit the season and the taste of the entertainer. Lobster or crabs, clams or shrimps, may be substituted for the oysters. Green pease may accompany chops, or sweet- breads may be the principal meat dish of the second course. Koast duck, turkey, or chicken may be provided if broilers are out of season, or birds may be served with a let- tuce or celery salad for the third course. And when one reflects upon the fancy dishes which may be prepared for dessert — the blanc-manges, the jellied fruits, the Spanish or Bavarian or Hamburg creams, the char- lottes of divers kinds, the whips, custards, and syllabubs — the only difficulty that arises is where to choose. A pretty notion is to introduce some unex- pected feature into the high tea which will appeal to the imaginations of the guests as well as to their palates. A little ingenuity will suggest some novelty of this sort. The literary salad, which has become well known 276 HIGH TEA ✪ Literary Salad

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Should small tables be used, the hostess may preside over a tray placed upon one of them,* or, when it seems more convenient, the cups may be filled outside, and passed to each with the cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl. It saves some delay in serving if there are a cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl on each table. These little tables may be covered with small cloths or large napkins, and need have nothing else upon them beyond the necessary furniture for each place, except, perhaps, a 18 . 273 vase of flowers. While small tables are often admirable as accommodating more people with comfort than could be seated at a large table, yet the latter gives opportunity for a prettier display of floral decoration, china, silver, etc., than is afforded by the former. The bill of fare is easily arranged. There are no raw oysters or clams, as at a lunch or dinner ; and while bouillon may be provided, it is not at all necessary. The meal may begin with oysters in some form, as fricasseed, fried, broiled, steamed, or panned, or in croquettes. With them are passed bread-and butter (brown or graham bread cut thin is good with oysters) or rolls. The plates are then removed, and the next course brought in. This maj^ consist of chicken — broiled or fried — or broiled birds, or French chops, and of potatoes in some form, as à la parisienne, French fried, or hashed with cream and browned. Cold tongue or ham is sometimes also passed at this time, and warm bread in some shape, as French rolls, sally-lunn, teabiscuit, rusk, or waffles. The coffee or choc- olate is also served at this stage in the proceedings. After this course comes a salad — ^lettuce and tomato mayonnaise, or chicken, lobster, or salmon — fresh plates being served for this, as a matter of course. Olives and some fancy cheese — Brie, Roquefort, or Gorgonzola — usually come with the salad. Cheese at this stage is strongly recommended by the epicure ; but it is not essential, except to those who hold, in the words of the old doggerel, that " A dinner (or supper) without cheese Is like a kiss without a squeeze." The table is now cleared, and the dessert brought in. This may be quite simple, as, say, preserved or brandied fruit with fancy cakes ; or it may be more elaborate, and comprise jelly, charlotte-russe, or fresh fruit of some kind, and light cakes. Ices are not strictly en règle, although no canon of taste is seriously offended if they are offered. It is better, however, to serve them later in the evening. Still, they are not essential even then. Finger-bowls set on doilies laid on pretty plates must be passed the last thing before the guests quit the table. Of course the inenu suggested above may be altered to suit the season and the taste of the entertainer. Lobster or crabs, clams or shrimps, may be substituted for the oysters. Green pease may accompany chops, or sweetbreads may be the principal meat dish of the second course. Koast duck, turkey, or chicken may be provided if broilers are out of season, or birds may be served with a lettuce or celery salad for the third course. And when one reflects upon the fancy dishes which may be prepared for dessert — the blanc-manges, the jellied fruits, the Spanish or Bavarian or Hamburg creams, the charlottes of divers kinds, the whips, custards, and syllabubs — the only difficulty that arises is where to choose. A pretty notion is to introduce some unexpected feature into the high tea which will appeal to the imaginations of the guests as well as to their palates. A little ingenuity will suggest some novelty of this sort. The literary salad, which has become well known

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