FoodNet

What to eat, how to serve it

1891

Page 52

Presented as published in 1891. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The places at table are marked by plain white cards, each with the name of a guest painted on it in gold. The table decorations are quiet in effect, but in excellent taste. The cloth, of pure white plain damask, is covered through the centre with a scarf of elaborate drawn-work. In place of the tow- ering epergnes once so fashionable, the floral ornaments, candelabra, etc., are all low. Pink roses, white lilacs, and maidenhair ferns are the flowers used ; and these are not ar- ranged in set form, but are simply massed in cut-glass bowls, three in number, placed here and there through the centre of the ta- ble. The candelabra are also of cut glass, which is used wherever it is possible, in pref- erence to silver. A corsage bouquet of the flowers mentioned above, tied with a wide pink ribbon, awaits each lady at her place, 199 I > WHAT TO EAT — HOW TO 8EEVE IT while a houtonniere lies beside the name card of each man. The candles are shaded with alternate pink and white shades, and the sil- ver and china are of the daintiest and pret- tiest. At each place are two large knives and a smaller one — one of these being supposed to be for fish, although it is decidedly contre les regies to use a knife for fish — a small fork for fish, three large forks, a spoon for soup, and a small oyster fork. The knives are at the right, the forks at the left of the plate, and on the left is also the folded nap- kin containing the bread. The glasses for water and wine are on the right. There are generally four of the latter, for claret, sau- terne, champagne, and sherry. A plate holding raw oysters and a piece of lemon is at each place when the guests enter. When these have been eaten, soup is served, a consomme ; and this is not brought to the table in the tureen, but is served from the side. Next comes the fish — a piece of salmon, with lobster sauce, it happens to be on this particular occasion — and it is followed bj'^ the 200 A LABGE DINNEB entrees. To savejbime, three of these- are ^ '. served at once ; but Fidus declines one, deem- ing it unwise to overload his plate and his stomach at so early a stage in the proceed- ings. After the entrees comes the roast, with one vegetable ; and the sorbet or Eoman punch succeeds this, and precedes the game. Salad, cheese, and bread-and-butter compose the next course, and, the table being cleared for dessert, ices make their appearance. After these are disposed of come the fruit, bon- bons, etc. Wine has, of course, flowed freely during the repast, but the drinking has been very moderate, after all, and each guest has felt at liberty to refuse any of the wines offered. Sherry has been served with the soup, sau- terne with the fish, and claret with the roast, while after the first course or two champagne has had all seasons for its own. At some dinners a larger number of wines are served, but this, so far from being essential, is not considered strictly good form. Nor have there been favors given, as one would suppose, 201 WHAT TO EAT— HOW TO BEEVE IT from perusing books of etiquette, that this is a common custom at ceremonious dinners. Such a proceeding, while it might in one way be agreeable to the guests, would entail a heavy burden of expense upon the hosts, and might, moreover, place the recipients of these mementos under an obligation which they would not thoroughly enjoy. If favors are given, they should be pretty but inex- pensive trifles. The dessert discussed, the ladies leave the gentlemen to their own devices for a while, and retire to the drawing-room. Coffee might have been served before they quitted the table, but in this case it is sent to the in the drawing-room, where they sip it ily, while the men enjoy theirs with cigars in the saUe d Tnanger, and par- >f the tiny glasses of cordial that is jed to serve as an aid to digestion.