individual flowers — all are much the same as at a luncheon. The table-cloth should be of the heaviest and handsomest damask, the centre-piece, the floral decorations, the can- delabra, with their candles and silk shades, the dishes, containing hors-d? ornvres^ bonbons, glace fruits, etc., differ little from the" similar arrav on the table at a formal luncheon. The same general plan is to be followed in serv- ing the courses. The dinner usually begins with oysters or clams. Next comes a soup — consomme^ or a cream soup of some really choice variety. A clear soup is to be pre- ferred as being light and easily digested, and since one does not wish to begin the meal by overloading the stomach, it is better on that account than a cream soup or a puree. Fish comes next, and this should be, as is everything else served at a dinner, either choice on account of its rarity, or because of the excellent fashion in which it is cooked. A piece of salmon or of baked halibut wuth a sav/ie hollandaise is good, or, in their season, salmon trout or any other game fish. Pota- toes in some form are served with this course. 192 THE SMALL DINNEE-PARTY This is succeeded bv an entree, and that in turn by the principal meat course of the dinner, usually filet de hmuf^ accompanied by one or two fine vegetables. Next comes Eoman punch, then game or poultry, follow- ed or accompanied by salad, and after that is the dessert — pastry, ices, creams, fruits, coffee, etc. As may be seen by comparing this outline with the directions given for a luncheon, the two are very much alike. The chief difference is in the kinds of food. Those served at a dinner are generally of a more solid character than those prepared for a luncheon. The latter consists chiefly of petite plats. A small dinner should not last much more than an hour and a half. It is readily dis- posed of in that length of time if the cook has the courses ready promptly, and if the waitress understands her business. All the carving should be done oif the table. The plates should be put in front of the guests from the right side, and removed from the left. Of course, whatever dish is passed must be offered from the left side. To prevent 13 193 WHAT TO EAT — HOW TO SEBVE IT mistakes the hostess should write out a full list of all the courses, what dishes each com- prises, and from what china they are to be served, noting, too, when there is a change of silver. A copy of this schedule should be in the hands of the cook, while the butler or waitress should have a duplicate pinned up in a convenient place in the butler's pantry, to serve as a reference in case the memory of one of them should play false. While caterers can be found who will sup- ply almost any dish which may be suggested, a graceful touch of individuality is imparted to a dinner if certain plats are prepared at home. Only, they must be well done, or they were better omitted altogether. The ices, biscuit, and Charlottes usually come from outside, but the entries and salads, as well as soup, and the fish, meat, and game, may be prepared in the house, and be none the worse on that account. Coffee is sometimes served in the dining- room, but quite as often passed in the parlor. It is never in good taste to have a large as- sortment of wines at a small dinner. Claret 194 THE SMALL DINNEE-PARTY and champagne are quite enough, or even claret alone is sufficient. When the hostess is ordering her dinner, she should bear in mind who her guests are to be, and arrange her bill of fare in accord- ance with her bill of company. The advis- ability of this is illustrated in the anecdote told of an English restaurateur who, on be- ing ordered to prepare a dinner for twelve clergymen, begged respectfully to know if they were High-Church or Broad-Church, "for hif 'Igh-Church, they wants more wine ; hif Broad-Church, more wittles."

AI-modernized reading of the original text

individual flowers — all are much the same as at a luncheon. The table-cloth should be of the heaviest and handsomest damask, the centre-piece, the floral decorations, the candelabra, with their candles and silk shades, the dishes, containing hors-d'oeuvres, bonbons, glace fruits, etc., differ little from the similar array on the table at a formal luncheon. The same general plan is to be followed in serving the courses. The dinner usually begins with oysters or clams. Next comes a soup — consommé, or a cream soup of some really choice variety. A clear soup is to be preferred as being light and easily digested, and since one does not wish to begin the meal by overloading the stomach, it is better on that account than a cream soup or a puree. Fish comes next, and this should be, as is everything else served at a dinner, either choice on account of its rarity, or because of the excellent fashion in which it is cooked. A piece of salmon or of baked halibut with a savie hollandaise is good, or, in their season, salmon trout or any other game fish. Potatoes in some form are served with this course. THE SMALL DINNEE-PARTY This is succeeded bv an entree, and that in turn by the principal meat course of the dinner, usually filet de boeuf, accompanied by one or two fine vegetables. Next comes Roman punch, then game or poultry, followed or accompanied by salad, and after that is the dessert — pastry, ices, creams, fruits, coffee, etc. As may be seen by comparing this outline with the directions given for a luncheon, the two are very much alike. The chief difference is in the kinds of food. Those served at a dinner are generally of a more solid character than those prepared for a luncheon. The latter consists chiefly of petite plats. A small dinner should not last much more than an hour and a half. It is readily disposed of in that length of time if the cook has the courses ready promptly, and if the waitress understands her business. All the carving should be done oif the table. The plates should be put in front of the guests from the right side, and removed from the left. Of course, whatever dish is passed must be offered from the left side. To prevent 13 193 mistakes the hostess should write out a full list of all the courses, what dishes each comprises, and from what china they are to be served, noting, too, when there is a change of silver. A copy of this schedule should be in the hands of the cook, while the butler or waitress should have a duplicate pinned up in a convenient place in the butler's pantry, to serve as a reference in case the memory of one of them should play false. While caterers can be found who will supply almost any dish which may be suggested, a graceful touch of individuality is imparted to a dinner if certain plats are prepared at home. Only, they must be well done, or they were better omitted altogether. The ices, biscuit, and Charlottes usually come from outside, but the entries and salads, as well as soup, and the fish, meat, and game, may be prepared in the house, and be none the worse on that account. Coffee is sometimes served in the diningroom, but quite as often passed in the parlor. It is never in good taste to have a large assortment of wines at a small dinner. Claret THE SMALL DINNEE-PARTY and champagne are quite enough, or even claret alone is sufficient. When the hostess is ordering her dinner, she should bear in mind who her guests are to be, and arrange her bill of fare in accordance with her bill of company. The advisability of this is illustrated in the anecdote told of an English restaurateur who, on being ordered to prepare a dinner for twelve clergymen, begged respectfully to know if they were High-Church or Broad-Church, "for hif 'Igh-Church, they wants more wine ; hif Broad-Church, more wittles."

What to eat, how to serve it