FoodNet

What to eat, how to serve it

1891

Page 31

Presented as published in 1891. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The first course of a standing lunch is usu- ally bouillon, served in cups. When these have been removed, a plate is brought to each guest containing oysters in some shape, usu- ally fricasseed or creamed, and accompanied possibly by a lobster croquette or a sweet- bread or mushroom pate. The third course may comprise chicken croquettes or rissoles, accompanied by lettuce or celery salad. Both with this and the preceding course tiny square or three-cornered sandwiches of thin bread and butter, sprpad with some potted meat or fish, with sardines, or with lobster mayonnaise, may have been passed. After this course come the sweets — ice-creams or 118 A STANDING LUNCH ices in small shapes, biscuit in paper cases, and fancy cakes — followed by coffee or cho- colate. Nothing must be served that cannot be easily eaten with a fork or spoon. Light wines or a bowl of punch are always in order. 119 TBB LUNCH BASKET. TO many people the limch basket and its contents are quite as important as any regularly set-out meal of the day — more im- portant than such occasional luxuries as cere- monious dejeuners d lafourchette and stand- ing lunches. Among this number are not only the school-children who, five days out of the week, must carry what the Southern boys and girls would terra a " snack " with them to school, but also the army of men and wo- men whose employment takes them to such a distance from their homes that it is im- practicable for them to return there for the midday meaL With these must not be for- gotten the band of night workers who, in one capacity or another, have part in making the morning papers, and who, turning day into night, find it as essential to take a midnight as others do a midday repast. m THE LUNCH BASKET In a less degree interest is felt in the lunch hasket by those young people who regard the coming of the summer chiefly as the re- turn of the picnic season. All these desire to know of something appetizing to supply their needs, and nearly all agree in condemn- ing certain articles as stale and hackneyed, asserting that they are tired to death of them. Among these are generally ham and tongue sandwiches. In making suggestions on this subject, the first thing to be considered is the basket, and to begin with, it should be a basket, and not a close tin box or pail that cannot be sweeten- ed except by scouring and scalding between the times of using. A basket, by permitting the passage of air through its interstices, prevents the food acquiring a close, musty taste ; and even the basket should have fre- quent airings and sunnings, and an occasion- al plunge into hot salt and water, followed by a rinsing in fresh hot water, and a wiping and drying in the sun or near the fire. Only fresh napkins must be used for wrap- ping about the lunch, and if their use proves 121 WHAT TO EAT — HOW TO SERVE IT too severe a strain upon the linen drawer, Japanese paper napkins may be substituted, or even fresh white tissue-paper, or druggist's paper. The daintiness of ribbons to tie the different parcels is all very pretty, but it is hardly possible for the hurried house-mother who has to put up even one lunch a day, much less when she has two or three to pre- pare. In order to succeed in making them even ordinarily attractive, she must take thought for these lunches as carefully as she does for the other meals of the day, and make provision accordingly, not waiting un- til the last moment, and then hastily gather- ing up whatever odds and ends she can find, and hurriedly cramming them all together into the basket in a manner that savors un- pleasantly of the bestowal of " broken vict- uals" and cold bits upon the beggar at the kitchen door.