FoodNet

What to eat, how to serve it

1891

Page 13

Presented as published in 1891. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
with the berries. The sugar may be in tiny individual sugar -cellars or be passed in a bowl. Unless the berries are fine large ones, it is better to serve them hulled, and to eat them with sugar and cream. In that case they are eaten from saucers. Peaches, pears, apricots, nectarines, etc., in summer, and oranges, apples, mandarins, ba- nanas, and the like in winter, all add greatly to the beauty of a breakfast-table when they are garnished with leaves and heaped upon a large flat salver, or in a cut-glass bowl, or an open-work one of china or silver. After the fruit may come a course of oys- ters cooked d la poulette, broiled, steamed, panned, or in croquettes. For these may be substituted lobster or crab in some form, if preferred, or both the oysters and the other may be served in successive courses. Next may come some such entree as sweetbreads roasted, broiled, fricasseed, or in vol-au-vent with mushrooms, or chickens may be served in some such dainty form as pates, timbales, d la marengo, or an supreme. Next are chops, cutlets, or small beef tenderloins, with 44 A BBEAKFA8T-PABTY potatoes in some fanciful style. There should be no other vegetable. French bread or rolls must be passed frequently. The next course may consist of a game pie, either cold or hot, or of boned fowl, and may be followed by a salad. The name of these is legion, but the plain lettuce salad is better reserved for dinner, and in its stead at breakfast there may be served something like tomatoes and lettuce with mayonnaise dressing, celery mayonnaise garnished with radishes, and accompanied by crackers and cheese, or a fruit -salad of oranges, grape fruit, or pineapple. The dessert may be of any cold sweets, and if ices are used they should be of the punch order — one of the many varieties known as Eoman, Siberian, Creole, cardinal, etc. If crackers and cheese are not served with the salad, they may be passed at the close of the breakfast. Brie, Gorgonzola, or Koquefort may be used. At a breakfast of ceremony the tea or cof- fee tray is never placed on the table, but breakfast coffee or cocoa is served in large 45 WHAT TO EAT — HOW TO SERVE IT cups after the fruit, and is passed by the but- ler, instead of being poured by the hostess. Tea may also be offered. Wines are not strictly selon Us regies at a breakfast, al- though occasionally claret is served about the middle of the meal. The waiting at such a breakfast as this is about as ceremonious as it would be at a luncheon. No large dishes are placed on the table, but everything is passed by the butler or waitress. Each dish may go the rounds, and the guests be allowed to help themselves, or a plate containing a portion may be placed by the butler in front of each person. The guest always helps himself to cheese and hors-iTceuvres^ but the ices are served sep- arately on plates. Bouquets de corsage^ hou- tonnieresy cards and menus are not necessary at a breakfast. A wedding breakfast is conducted on much the same line as that described above, except that there are usually fewer hot and more cold dishes served, such as salmon, lobster, or chicken d la mayonnaise, boned turkey and chkikeu, pate-de-foie-gras, jellied tongue 46 A BREAKFAST-PARTY and fowl, and a greater variety of such sweets as creams and jellies. Wines, too, are quite comme ilfaut. The giving of a breakfast need not be a matter of dread to the hostess who has con- fidence in her cook and waitress. The menu suggested may be so modified or increased as to make it as simple or as elaborate as preference may dictate. A breakfast is a pleasant style of entertainment, for, while both sexes are admitted, as at dinner, there is not the formality of dress essential at that meal, the men appearing in morning coats, and the women in handsome high-necked and long-sleeved house or calling costumes. 47