" If eggs are scarce, boil two hard ; pound the yolks in a mortar with a pinch of salt, adding the yolk of a raw egg ; when mixed together, put them on a table dusted with flour, roll them in the form of a small sausage, and cut them into very small equal parts ; round every piece in the palm of the hand with a little flour, and put them on a plate as they are done ; give them a boil in boiling water, then put in fresh cold water. Drain them through a tammy before putting them into the soup, ragout, or any dressed dish. 57. Mock Turtle a I'Amiral Duperre. {From the French Admiral of that name.) Take the fillets from a sole, cut them in scollops, and brown them lightly in butter with a little pepper and salt ; put the fragments of the sole, with the butter from the frying-pan, into a stewpan with the trimmings from a small slice of salmon (the flesh of which make into a forcemeat ball with butter), a pottle of nmshrooms, two onions, and two carrots sliced ; a little whole parsley, two anchovies washed, a little lean ham minced, half a clove of garlic, a pinch of 23epper, allspice, cayenne, mace, two cloves, half a pint of Chablis, and two ladlefuls of broth ; boil these slowly for an hour ; squeeze through a tamni}', and add the essence of a Spanish sauce ; pour into the tureen containing the scollops of soles the balls of salmon moulded into a teaspoon, two sweetbreads cut in scollops, also mushrooms and cocks'- SOUPS. 107 combs. Serve. — This is an expensive dish, and becomes even costKer when sUced truffles are added. Ohs. — It is a curious fact that while the majority of French gourmets will willingly partake of " fausse tortue/' or mock turtle, the}^ usually regard real turtle with abhorrence. 58. Parisian Mock Turtle. Take a fat calf's head (choose the thickest skin) ; let it disgorge that it may be very white, bone and cut it in four pieces, and remove the ears and the fleshy parts ; then stew it and drain it afterwards on a baking sheet, and lay upon it a large stew-pan cover, on which place a weight of ten pounds ; when it is cold, cut it with a round iron cutter one inch in diameter, and take from each piece any flesh or fat that adheres to it. Put the head thus prepared into a saute-plate, with twelve fine combs, twenty-four cocks' kidneys, and as many small white mushrooms ; add half a pint of dry Madeira, and simmer the whole over a slow fire for ten minutes ; then put it into a Spanish sauce well made and well clarified (this sauce should constitute the body of the souj), instead of the usual broth), to which add an essence thus pre- pared: Put in a stewpan two carrots, two onions, a pottle of mushrooms cut up, a little whole parsley, half a bay-leaf, a little thyme, basil, rosemary, marjoram, a little lean ham cut into dice, three anchovies washed and boned, a pinch of cayenne pepper, the same of allspice, two cloves, and a little mace ; add a ladleful of broth, and half a pint of Madeira ; simmer for an hour, and then rub the essence through a tammy. Add this to the soup, let it boil for a quarter of an hour, skim off the light skin from the top, and pour it into the tureen containing a plateful of small force- meat balls of chicken, in one half of Avhich you put a little lOS THE THOROUGH GOOD COOK.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

" If eggs are scarce, boil two hard ; pound the yolks in a mortar with a pinch of salt, adding the yolk of a raw egg ; when mixed together, put them on a table dusted with flour, roll them in the form of a small sausage, and cut them into very small equal parts ; round every piece in the palm of the hand with a little flour, and put them on a plate as they are done ; give them a boil in boiling water, then put in fresh cold water. Drain them through a tammy before putting them into the soup, ragout, or any dressed dish. 57. Mock Turtle a I'Amiral Duperre. {From the French Admiral of that name.) Take the fillets from a sole, cut them in scollops, and brown them lightly in butter with a little pepper and salt ; put the fragments of the sole, with the butter from the frying-pan, into a stewpan with the trimmings from a small slice of salmon (the flesh of which make into a forcemeat ball with butter), a pottle of mushrooms, two onions, and two carrots sliced ; a little whole parsley, two anchovies washed, a little lean ham minced, half a clove of garlic, a pinch of pepper, allspice, cayenne, mace, two cloves, half a pint of Chablis, and two ladlefuls of broth ; boil these slowly for an hour ; squeeze through a tammy, and add the essence of a Spanish sauce ; pour into the tureen containing the scollops of soles the balls of salmon moulded into a teaspoon, two sweetbreads cut in scollops, also mushrooms and cocks'- combs. Serve. — This is an expensive dish, and becomes even costlier when sliced truffles are added. Ohs. — It is a curious fact that while the majority of French gourmets will willingly partake of " fausse tortue/' or mock turtle, the}^ usually regard real turtle with abhorrence. 58. Parisian Mock Turtle. Take a fat calf's head (choose the thickest skin) ; let it disgorge that it may be very white, bone and cut it in four pieces, and remove the ears and the fleshy parts ; then stew it and drain it afterwards on a baking sheet, and lay upon it a large stew-pan cover, on which place a weight of ten pounds ; when it is cold, cut it with a round iron cutter one inch in diameter, and take from each piece any flesh or fat that adheres to it. Put the head thus prepared into a saute-plate, with twelve fine combs, twenty-four cocks' kidneys, and as many small white mushrooms ; add half a pint of dry Madeira, and simmer the whole over a slow fire for ten minutes ; then put it into a Spanish sauce well made and well clarified (this sauce should constitute the body of the souj), instead of the usual broth), to which add an essence thus prepared: Put in a stewpan two carrots, two onions, a pottle of mushrooms cut up, a little whole parsley, half a bay-leaf, a little thyme, basil, rosemary, marjoram, a little lean ham cut into dice, three anchovies washed and boned, a pinch of cayenne pepper, the same of allspice, two cloves, and a little mace ; add a ladleful of broth, and half a pint of Madeira ; simmer for an hour, and then rub the essence through a tammy. Add this to the soup, let it boil for a quarter of an hour, skim off the light skin from the top, and pour it into the tureen containing a plateful of small forcemeat balls of chicken, in one half of Avhich you put a little

The thorough good cook