are kinds of curry to be served ; for the list of Indian
curries comprises " Lord Clive," " Malay," " Dry Madras,'"
"J. P.," "Mrs. W.," for sweetbread, prawn, lobster, fish,
vegetables, and mulligatawny, to say nothing of " pish-pash,"'
"devil-pot," and hard eggs. The serving of curry, however,,
is still incomplete. It must be accompanied by chutney✪ Curry,,
one kind of which is made of stoned raisins, garlic, shallot,,
chillies, mustard, salt, and sour apples all pounded together,,
with brown suo-ar and vineo^ar.
There is another chutney made of tamarinds, tomatoes,,
lemon-peel, raisins, mustard, chillies, treacle, and vinegar.
There is, furthermore, an exquisite chutney made in Ceylon,
as a zest for the equally exquisite and famous Cingalese
prawn-curry, which is one of the many glories of the
capital cuisine of the Grand Oriental Hotel at Colombo.
Into the composition of this fascinating condiment, grated
cocoanut and pounded chillies enter largely ; and the huo
of the engaging substance is a delicate pink. The object
of all these inventions is to heighten the temperature of
the curry itself in a greater or lesser degree, according
to taste. (English curries, by the way, are almost in-
variably too hot ; they are usually as fiery as whitebait
in the "red-devil" stage.) In addition, there 'may be served
with the curry the carefully dried and salted slips of fish
facetiously known as " Bombay ducks " ; and again, at
Colombo, there is brought with the curry another adden-
dum, somewhat resembling the " ratafie " of the Emperor
Akbar, being a thin, almost transparent cake, about the-
size of a cheese-plate, and called " popodam." To the
uninitiated, this Cingalese dainty has a suspicious resem-
blance to a mixture of oatmeal and petroleum. It is made
really of " dhall," or " doll " (ground pulse), and " ghee "
(liquefied butter), compounded with asafa?tida, which
loses its odious smell in cooking, and could well be modified
in England by a mixture of potato flour and fresh butter..
30 THE THOEOUGH GOOD COOK.
Finally, ciiriy should never be eaten with a knife and fork,
but "with a fork and spoon. If the globe-trotters returning
from the burning land of India would teach us to eat
curry as the Anglo-Indians eat it ; if they would only tell
us something about Madras anchovy toast ; about " Agha's
beard," and " country captain ' : about cocoa-nut pudding,
yam pudding, cocoa-nut soup, and cucumber preserve, they
might at least lay the foundation of an English tiffin a
hundred times more appetising and more wholesome than
the monotonous dishes Avhich weary ns at luncheon, in this
land of fogs, poor cookery, indigestion, and the " blues."
What shall we do with the Scraps?
Page 25 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
are kinds of curry to be served ; for the list of Indian curries comprises " Lord Clive," " Malay," " Dry Madras,'" "J. P.," "Mrs. W.," for sweetbread, prawn, lobster, fish, vegetables, and mulligatawny, to say nothing of " pish-pash,"' "devil-pot," and hard eggs. The serving of curry, however,, is still incomplete. It must be accompanied by chutney,, one kind of which is made of stoned raisins, garlic, shallot,, chillies, mustard, salt, and sour apples all pounded together,, with brown suo-ar and vineo^ar.
There is another chutney made of tamarinds, tomatoes,, lemon-peel, raisins, mustard, chillies, treacle, and vinegar. There is, furthermore, an exquisite chutney made in Ceylon, as a zest for the equally exquisite and famous Cingalese prawn-curry, which is one of the many glories of the capital cuisine of the Grand Oriental Hotel at Colombo. Into the composition of this fascinating condiment, grated cocoanut and pounded chillies enter largely ; and the huo of the engaging substance is a delicate pink. The object of all these inventions is to heighten the temperature of the curry itself in a greater or lesser degree, according to taste. (English curries, by the way, are almost invariably too hot; they are usually as fiery as whitebait in the "red-devil" stage.) In addition, there may be served with the curry the carefully dried and salted slips of fish facetiously known as " Bombay ducks " ; and again, at Colombo, there is brought with the curry another addendum, somewhat resembling the " ratafie " of the Emperor Akbar, being a thin, almost transparent cake,about the size of a cheese-plate, and called "popodam." To the uninitiated, this Cingalese dainty has a suspicious resemblance to a mixture of oatmeal and petroleum. It is made really of "dhall," or "doll" (ground pulse), and "ghee" (liquefied butter), compounded with asafetida, which loses its odious smell in cooking, and could well be modified in England by a mixture of potato flour and fresh butter..
Finally, curry should never be eaten with a knife and fork, but with a fork and spoon. If the globe-trotters returning from the burning land of India would teach us to eat curry as the Anglo-Indians eat it ; if they would only tell us something about Madras anchovy toast ; about " Agha's beard," and " country captain ' : about cocoa-nut pudding, yam pudding, cocoa-nut soup, and cucumber preserve, they might at least lay the foundation of an English tiffin a hundred times more appetising and more wholesome than the monotonous dishes which weary us at luncheon, in this land of fogs, poor cookery, indigestion, and the " blues."
What shall we do with the Scraps?
Records on this page
Curry