Some hold with simple lettuce, just moistened all over with vinegar and dusted with sugar. Another method that has been dogmatically insisted upon as the only orthodox one, is to wipe each leaf of lettuce dry ; then to bring plenty of oil in contact with every part of the surface, finishing with the smallest dash of vinegar and a dust of salt. This, minus the salt, is my own dressing for lettuce salad; but when I have guests I allow fantasy to have some slight sway in the salad-bowl. A favourite Parisian top-dressing is to place a few fresh-water crayfish on the summit of the verdure. Crayfish form a very jiretty garnish indeed for all fish salads ; but when the crayfish are scarce and dear, decorate with shrimps or prawns. 26 THE TIIOEOUGIl GOOD COOK. Macaroni, Risotto, and Polenta. I want to expatiate briefly on three staples of Italian good clieer — macaroni, risotto, and polenta. As a rule, English cooks nse macaroni barbaroi^-sly. Usually, tbey either over-boil or under-boil it ; and when it comes to table it resembles either so many tobacco pipes with the bowls knocked oft', or so mncli " Stickphast " boiled, and garnished wdth badly grated cheese. I have known cooks who boiled macaroni in milk ; and, sad to say, I have had gnests who onght to have known better (ictuaUi/ ask for mustard ivitJi their macaroni Benighted beings 1 With respect to risotto, it may be hinted that the Milan- ese add a little saftron to it, for the double purpose of giving it an attractive hue, and of correcting the tendency of rice to swell and impede digestion. The Romans often mingle with their risotto either sausage-meat, or a mince of chicken livers,, or very finely shredded cooked bacon. You will find from the recipes* what risotto is, and 3'ou or your cook can indulge your fancy by adding what tasty things you like to the fundamental preparation of rice, butter, and grated cheese. Any cold meat you have left, or remains of made dishes, may be utilised for risotto ; and any kind of cheese, cheap or dear,, that is hard enough to grate, will serve instead of Parmesan. If, for example, you take the dark 3'ellow, strong-flavoured Gloucester cheese, you need not use so nuich saftron, which some might object to as a kind of "doctor's stuft'"; but in any case I advise young housekeepers of moderate means to try macaroni and risotto, the accessories to both of which are very cheap. For the little ones, of course, macaroni boiled in milk, or made into a sweet pudding, with custard,, .and lightly baked, will prove a delicious and wholesome dish. And, while we are on the pudding subject, let me remind * See Ir.dex to Recipes. CHATS ABOUT COOKERY. 27 mothers who wish to give their children a change in the way of sweet diet, tiiat a half-quartern loaf boiled in milk till it swells to twice its size, and served with stewed primes, is a dish that will delight the voungsters, and be very good for their health besides. If they " kick " at the stewed prunes, give them stewed pears, nicely coloured Avith a little cochineal.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Some hold with simple lettuce, just moistened all over with vinegar and dusted with sugar. Another method that has been dogmatically insisted upon as the only orthodox one, is to wipe each leaf of lettuce dry ; then to bring plenty of oil in contact with every part of the surface, finishing with the smallest dash of vinegar and a dust of salt. This, minus the salt, is my own dressing for lettuce salad; but when I have guests I allow fantasy to have some slight sway in the salad-bowl. A favourite Parisian top-dressing is to place a few fresh-water crayfish on the summit of the verdure. Crayfish form a very pretty garnish indeed for all fish salads ; but when the crayfish are scarce and dear, decorate with shrimps or prawns. Macaroni, Risotto, and Polenta. I want to expatiate briefly on three staples of Italian good cheer — macaroni, risotto, and polenta. As a rule, English cooks use macaroni barbarously. UUsually, they either over-boil or under-boil it ; and when it comes to table it resembles either so many tobacco pipes with the bowls knocked off, or so much "Stickfast" boiled, and garnished with badly grated cheese.. I have known cooks who boiled macaroni in milk ; and, sad to say, I have had guests who ought to have known better actually ask for mustard with their macaroni. Benighted beings ! With respect to risotto, it may be hinted that the Milanese add a little saffron to it, for the double purpose of giving it an attractive hue, and of correcting the tendency of rice to swell and impede digestion. The Romans often mingle with their risotto either sausage-meat, or a mince of chicken livers, or very finely shredded cooked bacon. You will find from the recipes* what risotto is, and 3'ou or your cook can indulge your fancy by adding what tasty things you like to the fundamental preparation of rice, butter, and grated cheese. Any cold meat you have left, or remains of made dishes, may be utilised for risotto ; and any kind of cheese, cheap or dear,, that is hard enough to grate, will serve instead of Parmesan. If, for example, you take the dark yellow, strong-flavoured Gloucester cheese, you need not use so much saffron, which some might object to as a kind of "doctor's stuff"; but in any case I advise young housekeepers of moderate means to try macaroni and risotto, the accessories to both of which are very cheap. For the little ones, of course, macaroni boiled in milk, or made into a sweet pudding, with custard,, .and lightly baked, will prove a delicious and wholesome dish. And, while we are on the pudding subject, let me remind * See Ir.dex to Recipes. mothers who wish to give their children a change in the way of sweet diet, tiiat a half-quartern loaf boiled in milk till it swells to twice its size, and served with stewed primes, is a dish that will delight the voungsters, and be very good for their health besides. If they " kick " at the stewed prunes, give them stewed pears, nicely coloured Avith a little cochineal.

The thorough good cook