I should say something in commendation of the Pomer- anian sauce for w^ild ducks, which is made thus : — Boil the peel of two Seville oranges until soft. Drain and cut this into thin strips, put them in a saucepan with a glass of old hock and a cup of clear grav}'', without any flavour of spice ; squeeze in the juice of the oranges ; add a little cayenne pepper, and, if not quite acid enough, a little lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the ducks when served, I should applaud this sauce were it not, as I hold, that the very best sauce for roasted wild duck, and for a salmi of tame duck, is the sweet orange itself, simply sliced and CHATS ABOUT COOKERY. 15 eaten bodily, rind and flesh, with the duck. The juice of the orange only loses its flavour when it is mingled with other ingredients, especially with wine. You want it fresh ^ sharp upon your palate ; and it gives in its natural state an estimable zest to the bird itself. In salads and salad dressings the Teutons are very powerful ; and this should be remembered — that in the Fatherland every known vegetable, when cooked j^li^iiib'- can be used cold for salad. Potato salad may be considered as native to German soil. The potatoes must be boiled in their skins, and while warm must be peeled and sliced thin ; then chives, onions, and parsley are chopped very fine and strewn over the potatoes in the salad bowl. Now sprinkle with salt and pepper ; add three spoonfuls of oil ; moisten moderately with vinegar and water mixed, that the salad may not be too sour. Several items may be added to the j^otato salad, both for flavour and appearance. Among these, remember pickled beetroot sliced, a fresh cucumber sliced, a Yarmouth bloater or a Dutch herring minced small, or a few sardines shredded. Our Teutonic kinsmen also make excellent salads of red cabbage and celery, of Avhite cabbage, of succory, of peas, beans, artichokes, cauliflowers, and young hops before they are leafy. Some salads they make with a dressing comjiosed of cream instead of oil. They have a supreme salad which they call the Polish one, which is made of cold roast game or poultry cut into very small dice, seasoned with pepper, salt, mustard, and finely minced chives, over which are poured equal parts of oil and vinegar. Jn defence of the equality in quantity of the second with the first moistening ingredient, they urge that poultry and game are stronger in flavour than green-meat, and demand a sharper or more acid sauce. When the Polish salad✪ Polish Salad has arrived at this stage, three csff^s, boiled for three minutes, have their yolks stirred in with the meat, while the whites are Vy THE THOROUGH GOOD COOK. chopped veiy small and added to the inixturo. At the time of serving, chopped endive or lettuce is added to the whole. The Spanish Cuisine.

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I should say something in commendation of the Pomer- anian sauce for w^ild ducks, which is made thus : — Boil the peel of two Seville oranges until soft. Drain and cut this into thin strips, put them in a saucepan with a glass of old hock and a cup of clear grav}'', without any flavour of spice ; squeeze in the juice of the oranges ; add a little cayenne pepper, and, if not quite acid enough, a little lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the ducks when served, I should applaud this sauce were it not, as I hold, that the very best sauce for roasted wild duck, and for a salmi of tame duck, is the sweet orange itself, simply sliced and CHATS ABOUT COOKERY. 15 eaten bodily, rind and flesh, with the duck. The juice of the orange only loses its flavour when it is mingled with other ingredients, especially with wine. You want it fresh ^ sharp upon your palate ; and it gives in its natural state an estimable zest to the bird itself. In salads and salad dressings the Teutons are very powerful ; and this should be remembered — that in the Fatherland every known vegetable, when cooked j^li^iiib'- can be used cold for salad. Potato salad may be considered as native to German soil. The potatoes must be boiled in their skins, and while warm must be peeled and sliced thin ; then chives, onions, and parsley are chopped very fine and strewn over the potatoes in the salad bowl. Now sprinkle with salt and pepper ; add three spoonfuls of oil ; moisten moderately with vinegar and water mixed, that the salad may not be too sour. Several items may be added to the j^otato salad, both for flavour and appearance. Among these, remember pickled beetroot sliced, a fresh cucumber sliced, a Yarmouth bloater or a Dutch herring minced small, or a few sardines shredded. Our Teutonic kinsmen also make excellent salads of red cabbage and celery, of Avhite cabbage, of succory, of peas, beans, artichokes, cauliflowers, and young hops before they are leafy. Some salads they make with a dressing comjiosed of cream instead of oil. They have a supreme salad which they call the Polish one, which is made of cold roast game or poultry cut into very small dice, seasoned with pepper, salt, mustard, and finely minced chives, over which are poured equal parts of oil and vinegar. Jn defence of the equality in quantity of the second with the first moistening ingredient, they urge that poultry and game are stronger in flavour than green-meat, and demand a sharper or more acid sauce. When the Polish salad has arrived at this stage, three csff^s, boiled for three minutes, have their yolks stirred in with the meat, while the whites are Vy THE THOROUGH GOOD COOK. chopped veiy small and added to the inixturo. At the time of serving, chopped endive or lettuce is added to the whole. The Spanish Cuisine.

The thorough good cook