There Avas still another Delmonico's down town near
Wall Street, and yet another on a most palatial scale in
Fifth Avenue, corner of East Fourteenth Street ; but the
last time that I was in the Empire City I found only a single
Delmonico, installed in a magnificent mansion fronting on
Fifth Avenue, Broadway, and Twenty-sixth Street, into the
last of which thoroughfares looks out a magnificent cafe
with a tessellated floor, lofty ceiling, and any number of
small marble-topped tables. In this room smoking and
drinking, as well as eating, are indulged in by gentlemen.
The remaining moiety of the ground floor is occupied by a
similar apartment fronting on Fifth Avenue, and used as a
public restaurant. An elevator gives access to the second
floor ; and here is a series of private apartments and dining-
rooms en suite, with a spacious and sjDlendidly decorated ball-
room or dining-hall. On the upper floors are a limited
number of apartments for gentlemen; and in one of these
suites of chambers Dion Boucicault, the dramatist, resided
for a considerable period. The cuisine and the service at
this house are not surpassed by any restaurant in the world,
and the same may safely be said of the prices, which are
12 THE THOriOUGH GOOD COnK.
comiuensiirate Avitli the excellence of the fare and the | er-
fection with Avhich it is served. Yet two persons can dine
modestly at Dehnonico's for live dollars, or £1 sterling. This
.sum includes a bottle of very good claret, although it is the
cheapest on the list. It may be added that at iJelmonico's
the rule obtains that a " portion " for one is quite enough
for two.
The author of "The Delmonico Ccok Book" is ^I. Ales-
sandro Filippini, who has been twenty-tive years vlicf at this
historic house, and in an autograph letter which serves as a
preface, he dedicates his exhaustive work to the Delmonico
family. In tive hundred closely printed pages one finds, to
begin with, ample information touching the markets of New
York ; and the Britisher will derive much interesting inform-
ation concerning a large variety of edibles which are rarely
met with in this country. For example, M. Filippini men-
tions wild turkey's, " trutfled grouse, commonly called ])ar-
tridge," squabs, robin or red-breasted .snipe — oh ! M. Fi!ip[)ini !
— sora or Yirginia rail, antelope, brant, red-heads, cygnet or
3'oung swans, with, of course, the famous canvas-back duck.
Among tisli mainly strange to the English palate are
pompanos, sheep's head, red- snapper, grouper, white fish,
cisco, cattish, wall-eyed pike. Then there are green turtle and
terrapin; followed by clams, soft-shell crabs, and twenty
varieties of 03'sters. ^I. Filippini proceeds to give a series
of menus for every day in the year; in which, among a host
of truly American dainties, you will tind stutfed and devilled
crabs, sweet potatoes, I'ried scollops with tomato sauce,
stringed beans with cream, hsh-balls, Saratoga potatt)es,
pigs' feet a la Boston, Martha Washington's pie, black tish
(in (jnitin, squash, broiled sea-bass, scrambled eggs with
asparagus tops, tender loin steak, turke}- with cranberry
sauce, antelope chops, lamb steak, flat sausages Avith white
wine, and blue tish Ct Vltalienne.
CHATS ABOUT COOKERY. V.\
The Kitclien of the Tatherlaiid.
Page 14
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
There was still another Delmonico's down town near Wall Street, and yet another on a most palatial scale in Fifth Avenue, corner of East Fourteenth Street ; but the last time that I was in the Empire City I found only a single Delmonico, installed in a magnificent mansion fronting on Fifth Avenue, Broadway, and Twenty-sixth Street, into the last of which thoroughfares looks out a magnificent cafe with a tessellated floor, lofty ceiling, and any number of small marble-topped tables. In this room smoking and drinking, as well as eating, are indulged in by gentlemen. The remaining moiety of the ground floor is occupied by a similar apartment fronting on Fifth Avenue, and used as a public restaurant. An elevator gives access to the second floor ; and here is a series of private apartments and diningrooms en suite, with a spacious and splendidly decorated ballroom or dining-hall. On the upper floors are a limited number of apartments for gentlemen; and in one of these suites of chambers Dion Boucicault, the dramatist, resided for a considerable period. The cuisine and the service at this house are not surpassed by any restaurant in the world, and the same may safely be said of the prices, which are
commensurate with the excellence of the fare and the perfection with which it is served. Yet two persons can dine modestly at Delmonico's for live dollars, or £1 sterling. This sum includes a bottle of very good claret, although it is the cheapest on the list. It may be added that at Delmonico's the rule obtains that a " portion " for one is quite enough for two.
The author of "The Delmonico Ccok Book" is M. Alessandro Filippini, who has been twenty-tive years chef at this historic house, and in an autograph letter which serves as a preface, he dedicates his exhaustive work to the Delmonico family. In tive hundred closely printed pages one finds, to begin with, ample information touching the markets of New York ; and the Britisher will derive much interesting information concerning a large variety of edibles which are rarely met with in this country. For example, M. Filippini mentions wild turkeys, " truffled grouse, commonly called partridge," squabs, robin or red-breasted .snipe — oh ! M. Filippini ! — sora or Virginia rail, antelope, brant, red-heads, cygnet or young swans, with, of course, the famous canvas-back duck.
Among fish mainly strange to the English palate are pompanos, sheep's head, red- snapper, grouper, white fish, cisco, cattish, wall-eyed pike. Then there are green turtle and terrapin; followed by clams, soft-shell crabs, and twenty varieties of oysters. M. Filippini proceeds to give a series of menus for every day in the year; in which, among a host of truly American dainties, you will find stuffed and devilled crabs, sweet potatoes, Fried scallops with tomato sauce, stringed beans with cream, hsh-balls, Saratoga potatoes, pigs' feet a la Boston, Martha Washington's pie, black tish (in gratin, squash, broiled sea-bass, scrambled eggs with asparagus tops, tender loin steak, turkey with cranberry sauce, antelope chops, lamb steak, flat sausages with white wine, and blue tish à l'Italienne.
The Kitchen of the Fatherland.