ising-lass. These eat very much Hke fishy muffins. There is,
again, a wonderful dish of fish and cabbage, which requires
a good deal of pepper to make it go down, and is a pre-
paration which I can scarcely recommend.
The Russians are much given, also, to cold boiled suck-
ing pig, and make a splendid dish of it. You must take
your pig, divide him in pieces, boil him with white wine ;
let him cool, and bone him ; then you encrust a mould
with pounded ice, which you endue at the bottom and
all round with poached white of egg, gherkins, and beet-
root. Dip each item in aspic jelly previously to putting-
it in the mould ; pour a thick layer of jelly on the
bottom of the mould ; let it set, and then arrange the
pieces of boiled piggy alternated with minced gherkins
and whole capers✪ Cold Boiled Sucking Pig, being careful to leave a hollow all round
the mould. Fill this hollow with cold liquid jelly, well
set. When ready to serve, dij) the mould in warm water,
turn piggy out on a dish, and serve vvith horseradish
sauce. I make no pretence of the tlish being a cheap
one; but this book is a cookery book for all, and I am
entitled, therefore, to give expensive recipes as well as
cheaper ones.
Prench Domestic Cookery,
There is an erroneous notion very common in England
that all French cookery is as expensive as it is difficult ;
but I hold that, in many respects, the French system is
less expensive than the English one, and that in a nud-
titude of instances its variety is equalled by its simplicity.
What did the great Louis Eustache Ude say ^ — '• It is a mis-
taken notion that good cookery is expensive ; on the contrar\',
it is the cheapest. By good cookery we make the most of
evervthing ; by bad cookery, the least."
When I first went to France, the ha ate caisiiie boa)--
6 TEE THOROUGH GOOD COOK.
geoise, or, as I call it, upper middle-class cookery, was in
a much better condition than it is at present in Paris, wliere
it lias declined owing to the immense number of cheap-
restaurants at which persons with moderate incomes lunch
and dine. You must go very far into the Departments,
and especially into legal, professional, and mercantile circles,,
to find upper middle-class cookery in perfection. There
you will be resfaled, as a standino- dish, with the historical
'pot-au-feu, or beef-soup — call it broth, if you will. But
now, mark: this should be immediately followed by hourlll
— the beef which has been boiled to make the soup
withal. I confess that I do not know what becomes of
the gravy-beef in this country. Possibly the cook throws
it away, after boiling it to rags in a violent, tempestuous,,
and imthinking way. The French not only eat the gravy-
beef hot, but also make it, when cold, into a very nice
salad, with oil and vinescar, s^herkins, and a few thin slices-
of cold boiled potatoes sprinkled with finely chopped parsley.
They treat cold French beans and cauliflowers in precisely
the same manner ; but the English horror of oil deters
us from utilisin*'- cold veo-e tables in this sensible fashion.
At home, in hot weather, I often revel in fresh figs and
other fruit, together with salads of cold asparagus, and
cold French beans at breakfast.
Page 10 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
ising-lass. These eat very much Hke fishy muffins. There is, again, a wonderful dish of fish and cabbage, which requires a good deal of pepper to make it go down, and is a preparation which I can scarcely recommend.
The Russians are much given, also, to cold boiled sucking pig, and make a splendid dish of it. You must take your pig, divide him in pieces, boil him with white wine ; let him cool, and bone him ; then you encrust a mould with pounded ice, which you endue at the bottom and all round with poached white of egg, gherkins, and beetroot. Dip each item in aspic jelly previously to putting it in the mould ; pour a thick layer of jelly on the bottom of the mould ; let it set, and then arrange the pieces of boiled piggy alternated with minced gherkins and whole capers, being careful to leave a hollow all round the mould. Fill this hollow with cold liquid jelly, well set. When ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, turn piggy out on a dish, and serve with horseradish sauce. I make no pretence of the dish being a cheap one; but this book is a cookery book for all, and I am entitled, therefore, to give expensive recipes as well as cheaper ones.
French Domestic Cookery,
There is an erroneous notion very common in England that all French cookery is as expensive as it is difficult ; but I hold that, in many respects, the French system is less expensive than the English one, and that in a nudtitude of instances its variety is equalled by its simplicity. What did the great Louis Eustache Ude say— '• It is a mistaken notion that good cookery is expensive ; on the contrary, it is the cheapest. By good cookery we make the most of everything ; by bad cookery, the least."
When I first went to France, the haute cuisine bourgeoise,
geoise, or, as I call it, upper middle-class cookery, was in a much better condition than it is at present in Paris, where it has declined owing to the immense number of cheaprestaurants at which persons with moderate incomes lunch and dine. You must go very far into the Departments, and especially into legal, professional, and mercantile circles, to find upper middle-class cookery in perfection. There you will be regaled, as a standing dish, with the historical 'pot-au-feu, or beef-soup — call it broth, if you will. But now, mark: this should be immediately followed by bouilli — the beef which has been boiled to make the soup withal. I confess that I do not know what becomes of the gravy-beef in this country. Possibly the cook throws it away, after boiling it to rags in a violent, tempestuous,, and unthinking way. The French not only eat the gravybeef hot, but also make it, when cold, into a very nice salad, with oil and vinegar, gherkins, and a few thin slicesof cold boiled potatoes sprinkled with finely chopped parsley. They treat cold French beans and cauliflowers in precisely the same manner ; but the English horror of oil deters us from utilising cold vegetables in this sensible fashion. At home, in hot weather, I often revel in fresh figs and other fruit, together with salads of cold asparagus, and cold French beans at breakfast.
Records on this page
Cold Boiled Sucking Pig