Only an artist should attempt to make Tripe a la
Mode de Caen because only an artist can make it. It
requires the soul of a poet, the spirit of a painter, and
the exaltation of a violin virtuoso in the maker as a pre-
requisite for its concoction. Of course, it may be eaten
by the commonalty, but it is too good for them. It really
is a dish for the intelligentsia*.
There are not more than a dozen people in the United
States who have the temperament and the touch required.
One of these is Roy Camithers. And herewith, as my
favorite recipe, I set down the complicated but necessary,
procedure for producing this work of art:
Take four pounds of fresh honeycomb tripe and one
pound of fresh manyplies tripe (the thickest part) and
wash thoroughly in many changes of fresh water. Drain
well, and scrape to have all absolutely clean. Take two
calf's feet and carefully bone each foot and cut into pieces
two inches square. Have a large earthen pot, scrupulously
clean, and line sides and bottom of this pot with very
thin slices of larding pork. Place tripe and cut up feet
in pot.
[163]
THE STAG COOK BOOK
Add two ^nall red carrots, two white onions with two
cloves stuck in each, and half of a sound, seeded pepper.
Make a bouquet of two leeks, two branches of celexj^ three
branches of parsley, and a sprig of th3mie, marjoram, a
blade of mace and a bay leaf — only one. Put this bouquet
in the pot and pour in a half pint of white wine, a pint
of cider and a quart of consomme or white broth. Season
with a full teaspoon of salt and half a spoon of black
pepper.
Now make a stiff dough with a pound of white flour
and two gills of water, roll out on a table imtil you have
enough to cover the pot, and cover closely, making sure
there can be no evaporation.
Place pot in a very slow oven and cook for fifteen hours.
Then lift up the cover, skim of£ the fat, and remove
the bouquet of herbs and the vegetables. •
Chop together six shallots, or scallions if shallots are
not procurable, the red part of a cstrrot, a bean of sound
garlic, two ounces of raw ham and an ounce of raw lean
pork. Place this hash in a saucepan with a tablespoon
of melted butter, cook gently on the fire for five minutes,
stirring lightly, and then pour in half a gill of cognac and
let it reduce briskly imtil it is nearly dry.
Put the contents of the pot on the saucepan, add a gill
of pure tomato juice✪ Tripe a la Mode de Caen, mix lightly with a wooden spoon,
and cook slowly for forty-five minutes.
Then dress the tripe on a deep hot dish, sprinkle a little
freshly chopped parsley over and send to table very hot
with twelve slices of toasted French bread.
That is real Tripe a la mode de Caen. All others are
imitations.
[164]
WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN
LXXXV
Charles H. Taylor
CLAM CHOWDER
Try out salt pork. Take out the scraps. Cut up onions
and fry them in the pork fat until they are a golden brown.
Open dams and save all the clam water. (Most chefs
steam the clams first because they are so much easier to
handle, but if you want the real flavor you want to shell
the dams, wash the meat over carefully and let the dam
water settle and dip it out instead of pouring it into your
kettle so as to leave out the sand.) ✪ Clam Chowder
Page 38 · 3 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1922. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Only an artist should attempt to make Tripe a la Mode de Caen because only an artist can make it. It requires the soul of a poet, the spirit of a painter, and the exaltation of a violin virtuoso in the maker as a prerequisite for its concoction. Of course, it may be eaten by the commonalty, but it is too good for them. It really is a dish for the intelligentsia*.
There are not more than a dozen people in the United States who have the temperament and the touch required. One of these is Roy Camithers. And herewith, as my favorite recipe, I set down the complicated but necessary, procedure for producing this work of art:
Take four pounds of fresh honeycomb tripe and one pound of fresh manyplies tripe (the thickest part) and wash thoroughly in many changes of fresh water. Drain well, and scrape to have all absolutely clean. Take two calf's feet and carefully bone each foot and cut into pieces two inches square. Have a large earthen pot, scrupulously clean, and line sides and bottom of this pot with very thin slices of larding pork. Place tripe and cut up feet in pot.
[163]
Add two ^nall red carrots, two white onions with two cloves stuck in each, and half of a sound, seeded pepper. Make a bouquet of two leeks, two branches of celery three branches of parsley, and a sprig of th3mie, marjoram, a blade of mace and a bay leaf — only one. Put this bouquet in the pot and pour in a half pint of white wine, a pint of cider and a quart of consomme or white broth. Season with a full teaspoon of salt and half a spoon of black pepper.
Now make a stiff dough with a pound of white flour and two gills of water, roll out on a table until you have enough to cover the pot, and cover closely, making sure there can be no evaporation.
Place pot in a very slow oven and cook for fifteen hours.
Then lift up the cover, skim of£ the fat, and remove the bouquet of herbs and the vegetables. •
Chop together six shallots, or scallions if shallots are not procurable, the red part of a carrot, a bean of sound garlic, two ounces of raw ham and an ounce of raw lean pork. Place this hash in a saucepan with a tablespoon of melted butter, cook gently on the fire for five minutes, stirring lightly, and then pour in half a gill of cognac and let it reduce briskly imtil it is nearly dry.
Put the contents of the pot on the saucepan, add a gill of pure tomato juice, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, and cook slowly for forty-five minutes.
Then dress the tripe on a deep hot dish, sprinkle a little freshly chopped parsley over and send to table very hot with twelve slices of toasted French bread.
That is real Tripe a la mode de Caen. All others are imitations.
[164]
LXXXV
Charles H. Taylor
CLAM CHOWDER
Try out salt pork. Take out the scraps. Cut up onions and fry them in the pork fat until they are a golden brown. Open dams and save all the clam water. (Most chefs steam the clams first because they are so much easier to handle, but if you want the real flavor you want to shell the dams, wash the meat over carefully and let the dam water settle and dip it out instead of pouring it into your kettle so as to leave out the sand.)
Records on this page
Tripe a la Mode de CaenSpaghetti DiaboliqueClam Chowder