Soyer's standard cookery

Ices may be broadly divided into two classes, viz., cream ices and water ices. The former are sometimes composed almost entirely of cream, sweetened, flavored and elaborated in a number of ways, but more frequently the so-called " cream ice " consists principally of custard, more or less rich according to respective requirements, with the addition of fruit pulp, crystallized fruit, almonds, chocolate, coffee, liquors, and other flavoring ingredients. Water ices are usually prepared from the juices of fresh fruit mixed with syrup, fruit syrup, or jam, sieved and diluted with water or syrup. In addition to these, there are the demi-glace or half-frozen compounds, now largely introduced into high-class menus under the names of sorbet, granite or granito, and punch. This variety is always served immediately before the roast, and always in small portions in sorbet cups or glass, never molded; and alcoholic liquors are more or less used in their preparation. Parfaits, mousses, and souffles differ from ordinary ices, inasmuch as the cream preparation is at once molded and placed on ice, thus omitting the ordinary preliminary freezing process. In these, as in dessert ices, new combinations and molds of original design for their use are being constantly introduced, but as the principal constituents of the preparations remain unchanged, they present no difficulty to those who understand the general principles of ice making. JELLIES. Jellies are made of cooked fruit juice and sugar, in nearly all cases the proportions being equal. Where failures occur, it is generally due to the use of too ripe fruit. To PREPARE GLASSES FOR JELLY. — Wash glasses and place in a saucepan of cold water; place on range, and heat water gradually to boiling-point. Remove glasses, and drain. Place glasses while filling on a cloth wrung out of hot water. To COVER JELLY GLASSES. — Cut Soyer paper bags in circular pieces just to fit in top of glasses. Dip in brandy, and cover jelly. Put on tin covers or circular pieces of paper cut larger than the glasses, and fastened securely over the edge with mucilage. Some prefer to cover jelly with melted paraffin, then to adjust covers. To MAKE A JELLY BAG. — Fold two opposite corners of a piece of cotton and wool flannel three-fourths of a yard long. Sew up in the form of a cornucopia, rounding at the end. Fell the seam to make more secure. Bind the top with tape, and furnish with two or three strong loops by which it may be hung. Calves' Feet Jelly. Take five pounds of shin of beef, and soak for six hours in cold water.