In Virginia we pride ourselves on our knack of cur-
ing hams, and the fact that Virginia-cured hams are
greatly prized and sought after by outsiders proves
that our pretentions are not altogether groundless.
There is, in fact, a delicacy of flavor in a ham cured
after the old Virginia method that is not found in ba-
con raised and cured elsewhere. This is partly due to
the feeding of the hog. The hogs of Western pork-
raisers are fed with a view to producing a great mass
of flesh, for every pound adds to the profit of the pork
dealer; but in Virginia, where we are merely raising
for our own households, we aim for quality rather than
quantity. We do not aim to have enormously large,
fat hogs, knowing that they will not be delicately fla-
vored, but are satisfied to have them weigh about one
hundred and fifty pounds. We let them run out in
the pastures and graze, or range the woods and live on
mast until about six weeks before killing time, when
we put them up and fatten them on com.
76 The Queen Cook Book
After the hogs have been killed and cut iip, we cure
the hams as follows: First, rub a teaspoonful of pul-
verized saltpeter on each ham, to give it a red color,
then rub it thoroughly with salt, and lastly with a mix-
ture of molasses, brown sugar, and black pepp✪ Cured Hamser.
The same flavoring may also be applied to jowls if
desired. Pack the hams away, with the skin side
down, leaving them in the bulk from four to six weeks,
according to the weather, as it takes the saltpeter a
longer time to strike in when the weather is cold. In
old times when they were unpacked the hams were
always put in the smokehouse and smoked about six
weeks by a slow, smoldering fire made of green hickory
chips. About April first, the smoking was completed,
and then there were two ways of proceeding; either
to leave the meat hanging or to pack it away again in
hickory ashes carefully saved during the process of
smoking. The latter plan was doubtless the best and
safest. When it was pursued there never was any
complaint of skippers or other vermin in the meat.
This was the method pursued by the Massie family, in
Virginia, whose hams commanded an extra price from
their superior excellence. The early spring is the time
these insects first appear, and as the smoking goes on
then, it serves to keep them at bay. But of late years
Virginians have almost given up smoking their meat.
We kill hogs on so much smaller a scale than in
slavery times that we can keep the meat in our store-
rooms without the need of a smokehouse. Some
hoiisekeepers congratulate themselves on having cut
loose from' the old, troublesome method of curing
meat, and they say it is just as well flavored without
smoking. Possibly it may be; but I have noticed that
skippers and other insects have increased enormously
since we discontinued smoking our meat, and many a
The Queen Cook Booh JJ
ham that ought to have furnished the family with
choice cuts finds its way into the soap fat. I am,
therefore, convinced that the old plan is the best and
safest. If, however, this is inconvenient, try to pro-
tect the meat from insects by means of bags. As soon
as they have dried out, after being unpacked from the
bulk, rub them thoroughly with black pepper, and put
them in sacks of stout cotton, tied above the hock.
Do this by the middle, or at latest by the last, of Feb-
ruary, as any delay might occasion the loss or serious
damage of the meat.
Page 29 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1895. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
In Virginia we pride ourselves on our knack of curing hams, and the fact that Virginia-cured hams are greatly prized and sought after by outsiders proves that our pretentions are not altogether groundless. There is, in fact, a delicacy of flavor in a ham cured after the old Virginia method that is not found in bacon raised and cured elsewhere. This is partly due to the feeding of the hog. The hogs of Western porkraisers are fed with a view to producing a great mass of flesh, for every pound adds to the profit of the pork dealer; but in Virginia, where we are merely raising for our own households, we aim for quality rather than quantity. We do not aim to have enormously large, fat hogs, knowing that they will not be delicately flavored, but are satisfied to have them weigh about one hundred and fifty pounds. We let them run out in the pastures and graze, or range the woods and live on mast until about six weeks before killing time, when we put them up and fatten them on com.
76 The Queen Cook Book
After the hogs have been killed and cut iip, we cure the hams as follows: First, rub a teaspoonful of pulverized saltpeter on each ham, to give it a red color, then rub it thoroughly with salt, and lastly with a mixture of molasses, brown sugar, and black pepper. The same flavoring may also be applied to jowls if desired. Pack the hams away, with the skin side down, leaving them in the bulk from four to six weeks, according to the weather, as it takes the saltpeter a longer time to strike in when the weather is cold. In old times when they were unpacked the hams were always put in the smokehouse and smoked about six weeks by a slow, smoldering fire made of green hickory chips. About April first, the smoking was completed, and then there were two ways of proceeding; either to leave the meat hanging or to pack it away again in hickory ashes carefully saved during the process of smoking. The latter plan was doubtless the best and safest. When it was pursued there never was any complaint of skippers or other vermin in the meat. This was the method pursued by the Massie family, in Virginia, whose hams commanded an extra price from their superior excellence. The early spring is the time these insects first appear, and as the smoking goes on then, it serves to keep them at bay. But of late years Virginians have almost given up smoking their meat. We kill hogs on so much smaller a scale than in slavery times that we can keep the meat in our storerooms without the need of a smokehouse. Some housekeepers congratulate themselves on having cut loose from' the old, troublesome method of curing meat, and they say it is just as well flavored without smoking. Possibly it may be; but I have noticed that skippers and other insects have increased enormously since we discontinued smoking our meat, and many a
The Queen Cook Book 77
ham that ought to have furnished the family with choice cuts finds its way into the soap fat. I am, therefore, convinced that the old plan is the best and safest. If, however, this is inconvenient, try to protect the meat from insects by means of bags. As soon as they have dried out, after being unpacked from the bulk, rub them thoroughly with black pepper, and put them in sacks of stout cotton, tied above the hock. Do this by the middle, or at latest by the last, of February, as any delay might occasion the loss or serious damage of the meat.
Records on this page
Cured HamsBoiled Ham