FoodNet

Principles of cookery

1910

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Presented as published in 1910. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
no PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY. these substances in the right proportions, there are times when we must use them separately. Angel cake, for example, requires the addition of cream of tartar to stiffen the egg-white which is its foundation. This aids in holding up the spongy mass until it is made firm by heat. In any case where there is a large proportion of egg-white a slight excess of cream of tartar is desirable. Molasses That molasses is acid in spite of its sweetness is evi- dent by testing it with a bit of soda. For this reason soda is added to molasses candy since if it is filled with air bubbles it will be more brittle. The acidity varies in different grades of molasses, and modern methods of manufacture and quick transportation give us a less acid product than that of the past. This explains why many of the recipes of our great-grandmothers called for such large quantities of soda in gingerbread, etc. In such recipes it is usually wise to reduce the quantity of soda and use a small amount of baking powder. Brown bread and all cakes and puddings containing molasses, because of its acidity, are usually more pal- atable if some soda is used to make them light instead of baking powder only. Butter contains so much buttermilk that, unless it is washed before using, a bit of soda is essential for all rich cakes and cookies which are to be kept for any length of time. sour Miik Because of the tendency to use an excess of soda and soda wjt^ -^ ^ use 0£ sour mjjj, kas been condemned. But BREAD AND OTHER DOUGHS. in thick, sour milk is- not very variable in acidity, and the use of one even teaspoon ful of soda with each pint of sour milk is safe. Soda is inexpensive and sour milk- is also, while cream of tartar and baking powder are costly. One half level teaspoon of soda is usually enough when one cup of molasses is used, as it is with one cup of sour milk. When it is more convenient to BOSTON BROWN BREAD. substitute sweet milk for sour, we retain the soda and add one slightly rounding teaspoonful of cream of tar- tar. . Baking powder contains some starch, but two or strength of three level teaspoonfuls of baking powdBoston Brown Breader are equal in powder effect to one rounding teaspoonful of cream of tartar and the half level teaspoonful of soda. Just why some good old recipes recommend dissolv- ing soda in hot water before adding it to the other ingredients, or mixing it with hot molasses, is uncer- tain. Perhaps the housewives wanted to "see with ii2 PRINCIPLES OF COOKERY. their eyes" that action would result. Or the habit might have been the result of the impure quality of the alkaline substance. The "pearl ash," as saleratus was called, was not as finely pulverized as is the 'soda of today, and may not have been as thoroughly purified from other ash. Hot water would dissolve it quickly, any impurities would settle, and even if some gas es- caped enough was left to do the work of puffing up the dough. Mixing Such small quaniities relatively of soda, cream of powder tartar, and baking powder are used in a dough that it has been a question how they should be mixed with the other ingredients to secure the most perfect result. The dough should be light throughout, not here a solid streak, and there large bubbles.