Principles of cookery

Eggs in doughs may better be studied here with other qualities of eggs rather than later with doughs. Under this head may be included noodles, popovers, Yorkshire pudding, cream puffs, eclairs, tim- [illustration: EGG TIMBALES] bale cases, fritters of many varieties, as well as sponge and angel cakes and macaroons. From a study of these distinctly egg doughs we may see why eggs are added to muffins, puddings, etc. These may be divided into three classes : ( 1 ) When the egg is used merely to stick flour together, such as noodles and timbale cases. (2) When the cake resulting is to be hollow like popovers and puffs, then the egg is beaten with the other ingredients. (3) Where a spongy texture is desired, the eggs are separated and beaten separately. For such mixtures as the first class lightness is not essential, is really undesirable ; hence, the eggs are Eggs in Doughs Classes of Egg Doughs Hoodies Timbales beaten only enough to blend yolk and white, and not to mix air with them. In noodles, which are a kind of egg macaroni, the egg supplies liquid as well as aids in sticking the particles of flour together. After a stiff, smooth dough is made, it is rolled much thinner than would be possible if it did not contain egg. Then it is [illustration: Pop Overs — an Example Dough Raised by the Expansion of Air] cut in strips or fancy shapes and may be cooked at once or dried and used like macaroni. The timbale cases are made from a thin batter, in which, to egg and flour, milk and small quantities of fat and sugar are added, and the whole beaten together until smooth. If the batter is then allowed to stand until the air bubbles escape, the timbale cases will have fewer holes in them. The hot timbale iron is then dipped into the batter and the coating adhering is fried until crisp. The second class should be hollow, and to secure this result the eggs are beaten without separating yolk and white, or better still, are dropped in with the other ingredients and all beaten together. Popovers are the result of a very thin batter, usually one cup each of flour and milk, one egg, and a little salt. This is beaten thoroughly together with a Dover Popover SPONGE CAKE. beater, poured quickly into greased cups, iron or earthen, and baked until thoroughly done. Yorkshire pudding is a similar combination. Cream puffs have a cooked foundation of water, butter and flour ; to this when cool the eggs are added and beaten into it one by one. Because of the scalding of the flour this is a stiff mixture and will keep its shape when dropped on flat pans, and will puff while baking. The same mixture, fried in deep fat, produces a hollow fritter which may be filled like a cream puff. Cream Puffs Spongy Mixtures Beating Eggs Cooking For the third class of egg doughs and for meringues and puffy omelets, the whites of eggs are beaten by themselves and mixed with special care into the other ingredients that none of the air which has been entangled may be lost. This air expands when heated, producing the delicate lightness of the meringue, or sponge, or angel cake.