Whatever the cookery may be, it is absolutely neces-
sary, even amongst private families, to have certain sauces
always at hand, the object of which is to perfect and
strengthen, as well as to improve and colour, the different
made dishes. Cooking, as I have said before, is an art ;
therefore it can be compared (if I am not too bold) to
painting, inasmuch that, however talented an artist may
be, he can never paint a picture unless he has the proper
colours at his command ; but once possessed of the right
combinations, he can extend or reduce and alter his tints
according to his taste and ideas. The cook must likewise
have the necessary ingredients in order to enable him to
produce made dishes both tasty and pleasing to the eye,
the latter being always a desirable end in cookery; and
although the same sauces may often be in request, it does
not follow that the flavour will be uniform, as the artist
cook, like the artist painter, will be be able to exercise his
knowledge and talent by manipulating his sauces, and
give them the hue required as well as the flavour expect^.
The four principal sauces, which after broth must be
considered the foundation of all good and high-class cook-
ing, are the Espagnole (brown), Velout^ (fawn, velvety),
Bechamel (white), and Allemande (yellow).
In order to obtain good sauces it is of the utmost
importance that the butter should be good and fresh ;
eo
PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY. 8i
that the seasoning should be put in proper quantities;
that the liaison (which here means a binding or thickening)
be made with the yolks of fresh eggs, well whisked and
properly strained ; and that the simmering, as well as the
skimming, should have the most careful attention of the
cook. Let this be well understood, that in no part of the
culinary process is attention and care so much required as
in the preparation of sauces, as no remedy will successfully
remove the mischief caused by a failure.
Note, — ^AU the sauces made of different compounds,
especially those of butter, should be kept hot in bain-maries,
and these even then not more than twenty minutes ; other-
wise, on account of their delicacy, they will either turn,
get decomposed, 6r become oily. To remedy this, and
bring the butter sauces to their original smoothness, a
piece of dean ice as big as a nut should be added to the
sauce in summer, or a little cold water in winter, and this
should be worked briskly with a spoon by the side of the
fire, before serving.
15t ESPA6N0LE SAUCE.
To make this sauce it is essential that the broth should
be good.
Prepare a broth as No. 4, then melt in a stewpan two
ounces of butter, pour the same quantity of semolina flour,
stir well with a wooden spoon till it boils, then draw the
stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer for half
an hour, often stirring. After this, add gradually some of
the hot broth to it, then pour the lot into it, and set it to
the boil, stirring the while, when boiling. Let the fat rise
to the top ; skim it properly ; then pass the sauce through
a tammy sieve; return it to the stewpan; boil it again,
and reduce it till it has reached a nice thick, but soft,
F
82 PRACTICAL HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.
consistency, stirring the while to prevent clotting; then
pour it into an earthenware pan ; lay a piece of kitchen
paper at the top, to remove any remaining particle of fat,
and place it in a cool place, as it is now ready for use,
and will keep several days.
152. ESPAONOLE SAUCE No. 2. ✪ Espagnole Sauce
Page 37 · 3 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1891. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Whatever the cookery may be, it is absolutely necessary, even amongst private families, to have certain sauces always at hand, the object of which is to perfect and strengthen, as well as to improve and colour, the different made dishes. Cooking, as I have said before, is an art ; therefore it can be compared (if I am not too bold) to painting, inasmuch that, however talented an artist may be, he can never paint a picture unless he has the proper colours at his command ; but once possessed of the right combinations, he can extend or reduce and alter his tints according to his taste and ideas. The cook must likewise have the necessary ingredients in order to enable him to produce made dishes both tasty and pleasing to the eye, the latter being always a desirable end in cookery; and although the same sauces may often be in request, it does not follow that the flavour will be uniform, as the artist cook, like the artist painter, will be able to exercise his knowledge and talent by manipulating his sauces, and give them the hue required as well as the flavour expected.
The four principal sauces, which after broth must be considered the foundation of all good and high-class cooking, are the Espagnole (brown), Velouté (fawn, velvety), Bechamel (white), and Allemande (yellow).
In order to obtain good sauces it is of the utmost
importance that the butter should be good and fresh ;
so
that the seasoning should be put in proper quantities; that the liaison (which here means a binding or thickening) be made with the yolks of fresh eggs, well whisked and properly strained ; and that the simmering, as well as the skimming, should have the most careful attention of the cook. Let this be well understood, that in no part of the culinary process is attention and care so much required as in the preparation of sauces, as no remedy will successfully remove the mischief caused by a failure.
Note, — ^AU the sauces made of different compounds, especially those of butter, should be kept hot in bain-maries, and these even then not more than twenty minutes ; otherwise, on account of their delicacy, they will either turn, get decomposed, or become oily. To remedy this, and bring the butter sauces to their original smoothness, a piece of dean ice as big as a nut should be added to the sauce in summer, or a little cold water in winter, and this should be worked briskly with a spoon by the side of the fire, before serving.
151. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE.
To make this sauce it is essential that the broth should be good.
Prepare a broth as No. 4, then melt in a stewpan two ounces of butter, pour the same quantity of semolina flour, stir well with a wooden spoon till it boils, then draw the stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer for half an hour, often stirring. After this, add gradually some of the hot broth to it, then pour the lot into it, and set it to the boil, stirring the while, when boiling. Let the fat rise to the top ; skim it properly ; then pass the sauce through a tammy sieve; return it to the stewpan; boil it again, and reduce it till it has reached a nice thick, but soft,
F
consistency, stirring the while to prevent clotting; then pour it into an earthenware pan ; lay a piece of kitchen paper at the top, to remove any remaining particle of fat, and place it in a cool place, as it is now ready for use, and will keep several days.
152. ESPAONOLE SAUCE No. 2.
Records on this page
Espagnole SauceVelouté SauceEspagnole Sauce No. 2