Practical household cookery

Lamb is generally cut in half lengthwise, through the spine, and divided afterwards in quarters, viz., two hindquarters, each comprising a leg and loin attached to it, and two fore-quarters, which include the cutlets, breast, shoulder, and scrag, or neck-end of the carcass. Each quarter may be roasted with as much advantage. Many even prefer the fore- quarter, or target, as it is called in Hampshire, to the hind-quarter; but should either of these joints be too large for a small family, each can be cut off and cooked separately, and differently, as shown in the foregoing. The shoulder can be roasted by itself, as well as the leg, and the loin likewise will make a small joint when roasted, as will also the best-end of the neck, or the whole neck and breast. It is however essential, before roasting either loin or neck and breast, to cut with a chopper between each chine-bone, as well as across the ribs, between the cutlet and breast part, so as to facilitate the carving of those joints when cooked. This is very often neglected, and gives no end of trouble to the carver when the joint is on the table, causing, at the same time, the splashing of gravy over the cloth. 556. ROAST LAMB. Whatever joint may be roasted, the process is the same. Fold it with some of the lamb's caul which the butcher generally rolls with it; put the joint to roast before an even fire, and baste it two or three times with some of its gravy. When cooked dish it up, and serve with the gravy free from fat, properly strained, and poured over, together with some Mint sauce (No. 225) in a sauce-boat apart 557. BRAIZED KID. Take a whole kid about five weeks old, which when skinned and cleansed looks very much like a skinned rabbit. Cut it across the spine-bone just over the kidneys, so as to leave these attached to the hind-part of the kid; put both halves in a well-buttered braizing-pan ; season with salt, pepper, and a piece of cinnamon about three inches long ; add a few slices of gammon, a " bouquet garni,** and two bay-leaves; moisten with a pint of broth, and let it simmer very gently about two hours and a half, with plenty of live embers on the lid, taking care, meanwhile, to turn over the pieces of kid and to often baste them. When cooked dish it up, strain the liquor, remove all grease, pour it over the meat, and serve. CHAPTER XII. REMARKS ON PORK. The meat of the pig is rather indigestible. Nevertheless it occupies a very high position as a food in this as well as in other countries. Hippocrates, that famous anatomist, even considered pork to be the most nutritious of all flesh. Be that as it may, what should we do without pork ? Neither Italian nor French cooking could exist without it, at least, not as it ought to be. In Ireland, the pig is recognised as the ** gentleman '' who pays the rent. I do not think the fellow could hold such a financial position if he did not possess in himself a superior source of income to other four-footed animals. I do not know if his social position is as high in England ; but what I do know is, that he appears, under different forms, on the best spread tables in the kingdom, as well as on the poorest. He is therefore a necessity ; consequently I will now proceed to introduce his gastronomic qualities under the best possible forms. 558. PORK CUTLETS. GHERKIN SAUCE. Cut and trim the pork cutlets in the same way as veal or mutton cutlets ; marinade them for about an hour with a little oil, salt, nutmeg, and pepper, and the juice of a lemon all well mixed together ; grill them over a clear fire about seven minutes on each side ; see that they are well done without being scorched; dish them up in the usual way, poiu: some Gherkin sauce (No. 192) in the centre of the dish, and serve.