Roses in the ever-blooming class may be set out as soon as the weather is settled and they will commence to bloom immediately. To keep them over winter do this ; Just before winter sets in, cut the plants to within six inches of the ground, dig up the roots and pack them in nice mellow soil in a corner of the cellar that has no window in it. The soil should be well pressed down on the root, and only give them water when the earth looks as dry as dust, because plants at rest as they are, require very little water. TUBEROSES. The best bulbs for flowering are those which are large and plump. Set them out in the latter part of May, first preparing the ground by deep spading, and enriching with a liberal dressing of well-decayed manure ; then plant the bulbs in rows twelve inches apart and six inches 8 114 FLOWERS. apart in the row, setting- them two or three inches deep. Keep the ground at all times free from weeds, and well stirred by the use of "a hoe. After the first frost has cut down the tops, which usually occurs in October, the bulbs should be lifted and left in the sun a day or two to dry, being careful to protect from frost at night. When thoroughly dried, they should be cleaned, removing the leaves and allowing two or three inches of the stalk to remain ; then store in a warm closet until ready for planting. Just before planting again, remove all the offsets, and, if needed, start at the proper time in order to have bulbs for flow- ering the following year. The bulbs for flowering may be started at almost any time, and flor- ists plant them every two weeks to have a succession of bloom. The tuberose is a native of a warm climate, and must have plenty of heat and moisture for its full development. With plenty of heat you cannot get too much moisture, but you can easily get too much moisture, which will cause the bulbs to rot, when you have not the necessary heat. A tuberose bulb, no matter how dry and warm it has been kept, will not always bloom. Examine them carefully, and if there is sign of life in the large bulb it is safe to bloom ; but be careful, for if you inadvert- antly break the center shoot, it will be at the expense of the bulb, because it will surely decay. To get flowers about the middle of April, or early in May, the roots should be put into earth in a greenhouse, hot-bed, or even a warm room, first removing all side shoots. In about five or six weeks after, they may be put in the garden, where they will usually flower in August. The very small bulbs or offsets are planted like peas, in rows about one foot apart, six inches between every two bulbs in the row, and three or four inches deep. Keep the ground mellow and clean by using the hoe. TULIPS. They are of the easiest possible culture, and while any good garden soil will grow them, they do best in a well drained sandy loam, enriched with thoroughly well rotted manure. The proper season for planting them in beds is in the months of October and November. Plant them in circular beds, allowing five inches between each bulb of the early kinds and six inches for late varieties, covering all to the depth of three inches. All the care necessary after this is to throw some slight pro- tection over the beds before winter sets in, to be removed in the spring.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Roses in the ever-blooming class may be set out as soon as the weather is settled and they will commence to bloom immediately. To keep them over winter do this ; Just before winter sets in, cut the plants to within six inches of the ground, dig up the roots and pack them in nice mellow soil in a corner of the cellar that has no window in it. The soil should be well pressed down on the root, and only give them water when the earth looks as dry as dust, because plants at rest as they are, require very little water. TUBEROSES. The best bulbs for flowering are those which are large and plump. Set them out in the latter part of May, first preparing the ground by deep spading, and enriching with a liberal dressing of well-decayed manure ; then plant the bulbs in rows twelve inches apart and six inches apart in the row, setting- them two or three inches deep. Keep the ground at all times free from weeds, and well stirred by the use of "a hoe. After the first frost has cut down the tops, which usually occurs in October, the bulbs should be lifted and left in the sun a day or two to dry, being careful to protect from frost at night. When thoroughly dried, they should be cleaned, removing the leaves and allowing two or three inches of the stalk to remain ; then store in a warm closet until ready for planting. Just before planting again, remove all the offsets, and, if needed, start at the proper time in order to have bulbs for flowering the following year. The bulbs for flowering may be started at almost any time, and florists plant them every two weeks to have a succession of bloom. The tuberose is a native of a warm climate, and must have plenty of heat and moisture for its full development. With plenty of heat you cannot get too much moisture, but you can easily get too much moisture, which will cause the bulbs to rot, when you have not the necessary heat. A tuberose bulb, no matter how dry and warm it has been kept, will not always bloom. Examine them carefully, and if there is sign of life in the large bulb it is safe to bloom ; but be careful, for if you inadvertantly break the center shoot, it will be at the expense of the bulb, because it will surely decay. To get flowers about the middle of April, or early in May, the roots should be put into earth in a greenhouse, hot-bed, or even a warm room, first removing all side shoots. In about five or six weeks after, they may be put in the garden, where they will usually flower in August. The very small bulbs or offsets are planted like peas, in rows about one foot apart, six inches between every two bulbs in the row, and three or four inches deep. Keep the ground mellow and clean by using the hoe. TULIPS. They are of the easiest possible culture, and while any good garden soil will grow them, they do best in a well drained sandy loam, enriched with thoroughly well rotted manure. The proper season for planting them in beds is in the months of October and November. Plant them in circular beds, allowing five inches between each bulb of the early kinds and six inches for late varieties, covering all to the depth of three inches. All the care necessary after this is to throw some slight protection over the beds before winter sets in, to be removed in the spring.

The household (of the Detroit free press)