Lesson VI
Darning
Darning on Stockinet. — Stockinet 4 by 2\ inches, darning
needle, darning cotton.
Illustkation h
MENDING 385
Cut small hole in the stockinet, baste it on a piece of stiff
paper about 4i by 3^- inches in size, being careful not to stretch
the stockinet. Commence to darn by putting in the warp
threads, beginning one-quarter of an inch outside of the hole.
Take up a small quantity of the material on the needle, skip
the same amount, and repeat until the line of stitches is one-
quarter of an inch beyond the hole. In going back, do not
pull the thread through tightly, but leave a small loop to allow
for shrinkage, and follow the principles of weaving in taking
alternate stitches. Put the warp threads in, in the form of
a diamond.
In going back and forth over the hole be particular to
catch all the loops around the edge of the hole. Have the
woof threads follow the shape of the hole, going one-eighth
of an inch outside. Show how the principles of weaving
may be applied to darning.
Lesson VII
Darning (continued)
Darning on Cloth. — Cashmere 4 by 2 inches. In darning
on cloth, use ravellings, if ^Dossible, to darn with; if not,
have fine silk to match cloth.
Make a lengthwise cut in cashmere three-quarters of an
inch long. Thread the needle, hold cut edges firmly
together with thumb and first finger of left hand, and darn
back and forth over cut, commencing one-eighth of an inch
above and darning to one-eighth of an inch below the cut,
making the darn about one-quarter of an inch wide.
Method. — In giving this lesson, do not permit the class to
work too quickly, as a good result will not be obtained.
Care and patience must be used. The edges must not over-
lap nor pull apart, and the threads must run the same as the
material so that the stitches will not show^
Show tlie difference between an overhand and a hemmed
2c
386
HANDBOOK OP DOMESTIC SCIENCE
patch, tell which is stronger, which shows the least and
why, and where used.
Explain that in patching a garment the square would
have to be outlined with chalk or basting thread, as it could
not be creased. Give the lesson as outlined.
Lesson VIII
Overhand Patch
Overhand Patch. — Figured percale or gingham, 70 cotton,
No. 9 needle.
Cut two squares of material 5i- inches, one to represent
Illustration I
the garment, the other the patch. In the piece that repre-
sents the garment, cut a small hole in the centre, fold
the square twice diagonally and crease, open the square
and cut through the creased lines to within li inches of
MENDING
387
the corners. Turn the triangles thus made back to wrong
side. This makes the frame.
Place the square for the patch on the table right side up.
Place frame over the patch matching the pattern exactly.
Pin in place. Turn in patch at line of matching on upper
side. Take out pins and put right side of garment to right
side of patch at upper edge of patch and baste turned-in
edges together.
Lesson IX
Overhand Patch (continued)
Overhanding. — Do not make a knot in the thread. Put
the needle straight through both edges, pointing it toward
the chest: draw the thread almost through, leaving about
Illustration J
388 HANDBOOK OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE
Page 186
Presented as published in 1900. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Lesson VI
Darning
Darning on Stockinet. — Stockinet 4 by 2\ inches, darning needle, darning cotton.
Illustkation h
Cut small hole in the stockinet, baste it on a piece of stiff paper about 4i by 3^- inches in size, being careful not to stretch the stockinet. Commence to darn by putting in the warp threads, beginning one-quarter of an inch outside of the hole. Take up a small quantity of the material on the needle, skip the same amount, and repeat until the line of stitches is onequarter of an inch beyond the hole. In going back, do not pull the thread through tightly, but leave a small loop to allow for shrinkage, and follow the principles of weaving in taking alternate stitches. Put the warp threads in, in the form of a diamond.
In going back and forth over the hole be particular to catch all the loops around the edge of the hole. Have the woof threads follow the shape of the hole, going one-eighth of an inch outside. Show how the principles of weaving may be applied to darning.
Lesson VII Darning (continued)
Darning on Cloth. — Cashmere 4 by 2 inches. In darning on cloth, use ravellings, if possible, to darn with; if not, have fine silk to match cloth.
Make a lengthwise cut in cashmere three-quarters of an inch long. Thread the needle, hold cut edges firmly together with thumb and first finger of left hand, and darn back and forth over cut, commencing one-eighth of an inch above and darning to one-eighth of an inch below the cut, making the darn about one-quarter of an inch wide.
Method. — In giving this lesson, do not permit the class to work too quickly, as a good result will not be obtained. Care and patience must be used. The edges must not overlap nor pull apart, and the threads must run the same as the material so that the stitches will not show^
Show the difference between an overhand and a hemmed
patch, tell which is stronger, which shows the least and why, and where used.
Explain that in patching a garment the square would have to be outlined with chalk or basting thread, as it could not be creased. Give the lesson as outlined.
Lesson VIII
Overhand Patch
Overhand Patch. — Figured percale or gingham, 70 cotton, No. 9 needle.
Cut two squares of material 5 1/2 inches, one to represent the garment, the other the patch. In the piece that represents the garment, cut a small hole in the centre, fold the square twice diagonally and crease, open the square and cut through the creased lines to within 1 1/2 inches of
the corners. Turn the triangles thus made back to wrong side. This makes the frame.
Place the square for the patch on the table right side up. Place frame over the patch matching the pattern exactly. Pin in place. Turn in patch at line of matching on upper side. Take out pins and put right side of garment to right side of patch at upper edge of patch and baste turned-in edges together.
Lesson IX
Overhand Patch (continued)
Overhanding. — Do not make a knot in the thread. Put the needle straight through both edges, pointing it toward the chest: draw the thread almost through, leaving about
Illustration J