Gancel's culinary encyclopedia of modern cooking

Espagnole, Veloute and Bechamel. Of these three principal sauces are derived many others, with excep¬ tion of the Neutral ones, NeuNeutral sauces meaning that they are not composed of juice of meat or fish. The Es¬ pagnole sauce is brown and made of butter and flour, moistened with good meat juice (veal preferred) gar- — 95 — nished with Mirepoix (see Mirepoix in list of sauces). Let cook from 4 to 5 hours, then strain into an earthen pot and stir until cold, by intervals, of course. With this sauce Espagnole, one can make any other brown sauce, by adding wine and stock of articles and reduced to demi-glace. The sauce Veloute is the sister of the sauce Es¬ pagnole, one being brown and the other white. From these two sauces are derived a multitude of others; without the Veloute, the sauce Allemande cannot be made, as it is the base of all white sauces. The Veloute sauce should be made with good stock, such as fowl, veal or giblets of fowl, of sufficient quantity and garnished with onions, carrots, celery, leeks, aro¬ matics and a little salt. It must be cooked white in fresh butter and then moistened with the stock. Stir well, so that it will be smooth. It should be cooked from 1 to 2 hours, then take all of the grease off. Make the sauce Allemande in this manner: Separate the yolks of the eggs from the whites (6 eggs to one quart). Put the yolks in an earthen bowl, with a little mushroom juice, a little of the cold stock, the juice of a lemon. Whip the yolks well, put in little by little the Veloute. If hot, put on the fire and stir constantly so the yolks will cook without turn¬ ing. Strain through a sieve or fine cloth. When this sauce is finished it should be white and of a deli¬ cate taste. For Blanquette, Poulette, Fricasse, proceed in the same way with the stock of your article, adding mushrooms, chives, fine herbs or taragon. The sauce Bechamel is the Veloute added with cream during the reduction. The sauce Bechamel can be made with milk also in default of cream. Make a light brown flour with butter and add boiling cream or milk, whip well and season lightly. Cut in dice a carrot, an onion, a small piece of leek and the head of celery; fry all to¬ gether in butter, put all of the garnishings in the sauce. Cook slowly one hour, stir, strain, then finish with a piece of sweet butter. This Sauce is used to thicken vegetables, cream — 96 — soups, fish, eggs, all sauces having cream for their base, and all dishes not containing meat. All sauces for fish, white or brown are made of Veloute, Espagnole or Allemande with the reduction of the stock in which they are cooked, and in the consistance of the sauce and in the seasoning. The sauces for chaud-froid are made with madeira or allemande, reduced from rich stock, meat jelly, fowl, fish and a few pieces of gelatine may be added. Reduce, strain through a fine cloth and stir until cold; when it is congealed cover the articles one wishes chaud-froider w. sa. Prohibition forbids the use of wines or liquors in cooking. Therefore it is very necessary to have all of the sauces distinctive and well seasoned. Neutral Sauces S’auces under this name are made without meat juice, fish or fowl, such as: Hollandaise, Bearnaise, Bread, Horseradish and Mayonnaise. Cold Sauces