FoodNet

Gancel's culinary encyclopedia of modern cooking

1920

Page 246

Presented as published in 1920. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The head waiter or the butler is at the head of the men servants. He has care of the dining room, the plate and the drink. He looks to the laying of luncheon, and waits until the guests or the family are helped. He offers wine, etc., and then leaves the dining room. Home luncheons must be directed by the mistress of the family, according to her means. The dinner. Three different styles: “a la . Franqaise,” “a la Russe,” “a l'Anglaise.” If the dinner is French style, all dishes are served ready in the kitchen, each dish according to the guest. At Russian style dinner, the butler carves at the side table and serves on the dinner plate. At English dinner style, he sets the first dish on the table, then he takes his place behind his master on the left hand near the side board, after removing the cover and handing it to the waiter. He — 485 — CANCEL’S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA waits at the table with general supervision over the other assistants. When the soup and fish are done with he rings the bell for the removers, gives the dishes to the waiter, receives the removers and places them on the table. He removes the covers and again stands near the sideboard, unless he is required to assist in handling the entrees, which he must do if there is only a second man to wait. He draws forward the dessert on the table and hands it around. He lays the dinner on the sideboard before dinner. He must arrange the plates, glasses, etc.,^ so that he may have everything ready to his hand. He must lay the cloth very evenly. The waiter will look to the plate and wine. On each dessert plate he must put a doilie, finger glass and silver knife and fork. They will then be ready for use when required. If ice cream is to be served the ice plate with a doilie beneath it, and also an ice spoon. He must put at each corner of the table two tablespoons, a caraffe of water and a salt cellar; a plate for each person, with a folder table napkin with a roll in it; two large knives, one silver and one steel; butter knife; the silver fish knife and fork, and a tablespoon for soup; two dessert spoons, by each plate. Then he places the wine glasses, etc. The tumblers are kept on the sideboard till required at dinner parties. If it is a large party there will be a caraffe and glass and a tiny salt shaker between every two people, also at dinners a “menu” on a stand between every two guests. At ordinary dinners cold relishes are put on the table after the soup or fish. The waiter receives the dishes from the kitchen. When they are put on the table, the waiter places the first dish. The waiter stands behind the lady of the house. He carries round plates of soup, offering one to each person. He must hand it on the left hand of the diner. Next he hands the fish, then the entrees or side-dishes, then the removes or chief joints, etc. Wine is offered directly after soup, and frequently during dinner. Sherry for soup, white wine for the fish and claret for meat are used at the ordinary table. Hock or champagne is carried around iim mediately after the first entree at a dinner party. The waiter must stand watching the table very attentively, so that he may change every plate as soon as required. He must be — 486 — CULINARY EVOLUTION careful to learn from the kitchen which are the right sauces to hand with the different dishes.