The tenderloin, rack or loin and leg are best for , broiling,
roasting or saute. The shoulder and breast is sometimes used
for braising or roasting in very small families, but it is
usually stewed, as is also the knuckle; or the knuckle may be
broiled or braised; sweet-breads are considered a delicate
. aliment for children and convalescent, and consequently are
•expensive., ; j , , • y j .. /
Calves’ feet and head are also valuable, boiled, stewed, or
used for jelly, and contain a large substance of .gelatine and
are very good given to invalids. Calves’ liver is prepared
in a great many styles, but the simplest way is the . best:
fried or broiled. Veal bone makes the best stock for rich
soups and gravies. It is a most useful meat for made dishes
of all kinds, on account of its delicate flavor. -
Mutton. Whether mutton is of the best, may be known
by its having a knob of fat on the upper part of the leg. It
should be dark colored and have plenty of fat. The color
is important, as it is a proof of age, and the older mutton is
the better it is. It should properly be the flesh of a sheep
four or five years old, to be in perfection, but such meat is
rarely to be bought at a butcher’s; one tastes it only at the
houses of country gentlemen who kill their own animals.
All the joints of lamb or mutton may be roasted. The
saddle is the best, the haunch, called in French “Baron”
saddle and leg roast undivided, the leg and loin, separated,
.are the best "joints; chops are cut from the .rack or loin;
. cutlet from the thick end of the loin, best- end of the neck,
or middle of the leg. French chops the best part in the
rack called “cotelettes dans la noix,” nicely shaped and trim¬
med. The breast shoulder is sometimes roasted or braised or
broiled, but is very good for stew with the neck.
The “house lamb” (which is in season before Christmas
and Easter) is most 'naturally prepared roasted or broiled.
— 477 —
G ANCEL’S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA
Pork. Buy pork of a respectable butcher as there are so
many different styles of preparing pork. Get it from some
place where you know it has been carefully fed; from a
dairy farm is the best place, or from a country farm, as
diseased or bad pork is a very dangerous food.
Then prepare it yourself, and get your choice, such as
sausage, blood pudding, ham and pig’s feet, etc. The fat of
pork should be firm, and the lean white, and finely grained.
The rind or skin thin and smooth. If the flesh is clammy to
the touch the pork is. bad. If the fat has kernels in it the
pig has been measly, and the meat should not be eaten.
Pork should be perfectly sweet to be good, therefore, do not
hang it long.
Hams are tried by sticking a knife or cleaver into them
up to the knuckle; if when drawn out it has a nice smell, the
ham is good. A bad scent will be perceived if it is tainted.
Bacon. If bacon is good the rind is thin, the fat firm and
pinkish, the lean tender and adhering to the bone. Rusty
bacon has yellow streaks in it.
The roasting joints of pork are the leg, shoulder, loin
and rack. The other joints are salted, the leg may also be
cured and boiled. The sides or flitches are made into bacon
or salt pork. The leg makes a ham. The head to the tail is
very good.
Page 240
Presented as published in 1920. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The tenderloin, rack or loin and leg are best for , broiling, roasting or saute. The shoulder and breast is sometimes used for braising or roasting in very small families, but it is usually stewed, as is also the knuckle; or the knuckle may be broiled or braised; sweet-breads are considered a delicate aliment for children and convalescent, and consequently are •expensive., ; j , , • y j .. /
Calves’ feet and head are also valuable, boiled, stewed, or used for jelly, and contain a large substance of gelatine and are very good given to invalids. Calves’ liver is prepared in a great many styles, but the simplest way is the best: fried or broiled. Veal bone makes the best stock for rich soups and gravies. It is a most useful meat for made dishes of all kinds, on account of its delicate flavor. -
Mutton. Whether mutton is of the best, may be known by its having a knob of fat on the upper part of the leg. It should be dark colored and have plenty of fat. The color is important, as it is a proof of age, and the older mutton is the better it is. It should properly be the flesh of a sheep four or five years old, to be in perfection, but such meat is rarely to be bought at a butcher’s; one tastes it only at the houses of country gentlemen who kill their own animals.
All the joints of lamb or mutton may be roasted. The saddle is the best, the haunch, called in French “Baron” saddle and leg roast undivided, the leg and loin, separated, .are the best "joints; chops are cut from the .rack or loin; . cutlet from the thick end of the loin, best- end of the neck, or middle of the leg. French chops the best part in the rack called “cotelettes dans la noix,” nicely shaped and trim¬ med. The breast shoulder is sometimes roasted or braised or broiled, but is very good for stew with the neck.
The “house lamb” (which is in season before Christmas and Easter) is most 'naturally prepared roasted or broiled.
— 477 —
Pork. Buy pork of a respectable butcher as there are so many different styles of preparing pork. Get it from some place where you know it has been carefully fed; from a dairy farm is the best place, or from a country farm, as diseased or bad pork is a very dangerous food.
Then prepare it yourself, and get your choice, such as sausage, blood pudding, ham and pig’s feet, etc. The fat of pork should be firm, and the lean white, and finely grained. The rind or skin thin and smooth. If the flesh is clammy to the touch the pork is. bad. If the fat has kernels in it the pig has been measly, and the meat should not be eaten. Pork should be perfectly sweet to be good, therefore, do not hang it long.
Hams are tried by sticking a knife or cleaver into them up to the knuckle; if when drawn out it has a nice smell, the ham is good. A bad scent will be perceived if it is tainted.
Bacon. If bacon is good the rind is thin, the fat firm and pinkish, the lean tender and adhering to the bone. Rusty bacon has yellow streaks in it.
The roasting joints of pork are the leg, shoulder, loin and rack. The other joints are salted, the leg may also be cured and boiled. The sides or flitches are made into bacon or salt pork. The leg makes a ham. The head to the tail is very good.