The French have always possessed an instinctive know¬
ledge of the chemistry of cooking, hence their unrivalled
excellence in the art. We subjoin as extract on the subject,
translated from “L’Art de la Cuisine Frangaise,” by the
celebrated cook of the Prince Regent Careme: “The good
housewife,” he says, “puts her meat into an earthen stock
pot and pours cold water on it in the proportion of two
quarts to three pounds of the beef. She sets it at the side of
the fire and unconsciously performs an act of chemical skill.
The pot grows gradually hot and as the water heats it dilates
the muscular fibres of the flesh by dissolving easily, and rise
to the surface of the water in light foam or scum, while the
osmazome, which is the savoury juice of the meat, dissolving
little by little, adds flavour to the broth. By this simple
proceeding of “slow” cooking, the housewife obtains a
savoury and nourishing broth and a “bouilli,” (boiled meat)✪ Bouilli (Boiled Meat)
tender and with a good flavour.”
These are the results of the chemical action of fire;
“but,” he continues, “by placing the “pot-au-feu” on too
hot a fire, it boils too soon; the albumen coagulates and
hardens; the water, not having had the time necessary to
penetrate the meat, hinders the osmazome from disengaging
itself, and the sad result is that you have only a hard piece
of boiled meat and a broth without flavour or goodness.
A little fresh water poured into the pot at intervals helps
the scum to rise more abundantly.”
This practical explanation will, we trust, show you the
importance of knowing something of the chemistry of cook¬
ing.
0
— 459 —
G ANGEL’ S r C U L IN ARY ENCYCLOPE D I A
CULINARY EVOLUTION
Tile ■ destiny oi nations defend on their diet.
— BRILil/AT SAVARIN.
TFHE GASTRONOMIC taste changes with the progress of
*a people. Without exactly assenting either to the gastro¬
nomic Frenchman, American, English, Italian, German or
Russian, we are of the opinion that the civilization of a
people or of any age may be ascertained by the style of its
cuisine. Man has been defined as a living animal and pre¬
eminence in the art is assuredly a sign of his advancement.
It is historically known that civilization and culinary
existed with the Greeks to a high degree of perfection
centuries ago. The French have always been possessed of
an instinctive knowledge of the chemistry of cooking, hence
then; excellence was unrivalled.
In the meantime the gastronomic art had been making
great progress. It took a long step forward in the reign of
Louis the Fourth who was a gourmand in addition to his
other distinctive characteristics.
From this period the cuisine entered a new era which
dates from the immigration of chefs from divers countries
of Europe. Such disciples as “Antonin Careme” and his
successors in the culinary art. They have produced the
refinement and delicacy of our days which we call “Cuisine
Modcrne.”
PLAIN DIRECTIONS FOR ROASTING
How to Roast — Roasting meat, though of the commonest
modes of dressing it, is by no means an easy task. Roast
meat is too often sent to the table nearly raw, or dried up
till there is scarcely any gravy in it. Now, “good” roasting
consists in dressing the joint thoroughly and yet retaining
its juice in it. The French motto — “L’on devient cuisinier
mais l’on nait rotisseur”— you must not forget that you
become a cook, and that you are born a roastcook. ✪ Roasting Meat
Page 227 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1920. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The French have always possessed an instinctive knowledge of the chemistry of cooking, hence their unrivalled excellence in the art. We subjoin as extract on the subject, translated from “L’Art de la Cuisine Frangaise,” by the celebrated cook of the Prince Regent Careme: "The good housewife," he says, "puts her meat into an earthen stock pot and pours cold water on it in the proportion of two quarts to three pounds of the beef. She sets it at the side of the fire and unconsciously performs an act of chemical skill. The pot grows gradually hot and as the water heats it, it dilates the muscular fibres of the flesh by dissolving easily, and rise to the surface of the water in light foam or scum, while the osmazome, which is the savoury juice of the meat, dissolving little by little, adds flavour to the broth. By this simple proceeding of “slow” cooking, the housewife obtains a savoury and nourishing broth and a “bouilli,” (boiled meat) tender and with a good flavour.”
These are the results of the chemical action of fire; “but,” he continues, “by placing the “pot-au-feu” on too hot a fire, it boils too soon; the albumen coagulates and hardens; the water, not having had the time necessary to penetrate the meat, hinders the osmazome from disengaging itself, and the sad result is that you have only a hard piece of boiled meat and a broth without flavour or goodness. A little fresh water poured into the pot at intervals helps the scum to rise more abundantly.”
This practical explanation will, we trust, show you the importance of knowing something of the chemistry of cook¬ ing.
— 459 —
G ANGEL’ S r C U L IN ARY ENCYCLOPE D I A
Tile ■ destiny oi nations defend on their diet.
— BRILLAT SAVARIN.
The gastronomic taste changes with the progress of a people. Without exactly assenting either to the gastronomic Frenchman, American, English, Italian, German or Russian, we are of the opinion that the civilization of a people or of any age may be ascertained by the style of its cuisine. Man has been defined as a living animal and pre-eminence in the art is assuredly a sign of his advancement.
It is historically known that civilization and culinary art existed with the Greeks to a high degree of perfection centuries ago. The French have always been possessed of an instinctive knowledge of the chemistry of cooking, hence their excellence was unrivalled.
In the meantime the gastronomic art had been making great progress. It took a long step forward in the reign of Louis the Fourth who was a gourmand in addition to his other distinctive characteristics.
From this period the cuisine entered a new era which dates from the immigration of chefs from divers countries of Europe. Such disciples as "Antonin Careme" and his successors in the culinary art have produced the refinement and delicacy of our days which we call "Cuisine Moderne."”
PLAIN DIRECTIONS FOR ROASTING
How to Roast — Roasting meat, though of the commonest modes of dressing it, is by no means an easy task. Roast meat is too often sent to the table nearly raw, or dried up till there is scarcely any gravy in it. Now, "good" roasting consists in dressing the joint thoroughly and yet retaining its juice in it. The French motto — "L'on devient cuisinier mais l'on nait rotisseur"— you must not forget that you become a cook, and that you are born a roaster.
Records on this page
Bouilli (Boiled Meat)Roasting Meat