FoodNet

Gancel's culinary encyclopedia of modern cooking

1920

Page 1

Presented as published in 1920. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
When you see the cooks come out of the basement kitchens, pale and very often rheumatic, it is no wonder that they are so, considering that they have been shut up in such an atmosphere, forced to inhale the gas from the range and the fumes generating in the cooking utensils. Pressed by the headwaiter and others for two or three consecutive hours to “hurry up,” these men return to their homes tired out. Give to these men sanitary, hygienic, well lighted and ven- tilated kitchens. Such would be an act of humanity as well as a public necessity. Installation of Modern Kitchen. — All the walls of the kitchen, refrigerator, pantry, gardemanger, pastry and bake shop, etc., should be made of enameled bricks or tile and the floor covered with marble, mosaic or concrete. The range, as much as possible, in the center, surrounded by iron grating, sprinkled with sawdust, a ventilator and aspiring ap- paratus to aspire the heat and smell of the kitchen; all tables and shelves should be made of steel, to facilitate their cleaning. All of the table service should be kept in the heating oven, one sink or more for each department, with hot and cold water, every ice box with up-to-date installations. The cook' ing utensils should be, if possible, bi-metal, “copper covered with silver,” copper or reinforced aluminum. Enameled utensils should never be used as there is great danger of pieces of enamel breaking and mixing with the food, which causes appendicitis and other serious diseases. There are a few modern hotels, clubs, and restaurants which have commenced to reconstruct their kitchen depart¬ ments, but it will take a long time to establish an hygienic one. An hygienic kitchen should conform to the necessities of the work of modern cooking and for the public sanitation. A strict inspection by the Board of Health of all cities of the country would be a benefit to the public in general. J. GANCEL ENCYCLOPEDIA OF MODERN COOKING / , : ■ . . : \ .. V’ C : ' :> . V . 'V , , .. • ; ■: ,r , j-.-. / / i > V " V.’ y- ■ t: ' ; ' ' . ■ . x . 1 ' v . . i , f ' C ' v . •••. • . HORS-D’OEUVRE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF RELISHES Many relishes are served for Entrees The ancient Greeks and Romans considered relishes a great delicacy, so it is nothing new in the modern cooking of today. There are two different kinds of relishes, hot and cold, and should be served before the soup, principally the cold ones, as the hot relishes are sometimes served as small entrees. But if the hot relishes are desired, one should be careful not to serve the same as any other dish already composing the menu. There are a great many varieties of hot and cold rel¬ ishes, and they should be made very fancy to excite the appetite. Cold relishes such as oysters, caviar, olives, radishes, celery and sardines should be kept on ice or in a cool place and served only a few seconds before eating. RELISHES ( Hors-d • OEuvre) Abbreviations: H., Hot; C., Cold; Gar., Garnished; Jul., Julienne. Aceto, C. Vegetable and fruit pickled in vinegar. Achards, C. Macedoine of vegetables, pickled in mustard. , V 7 GANCEL’S CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA Agnoliti, C. Small patties of noodle paste with divers meat. (Ravioli style.) Agoursis, C. Dill pickles. Aiguillette, C. Sticks of puff paste, gar. with divers stuffing.