FoodNet

Food study

1917

Page 103

Presented as published in 1917. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
When ready for market, the oysters are dredged, freed from dirt and attached shells, and sorted according to size. Three sizes are usually recognized. The smallest, called "half shells", are usually eaten raw, the middle-sized, sometimes called "culls", are for general use, while the largest or "box" oysters are selected for frying. The difference in size is mainly a question of age, for, while there are many varieties of oysters, there is not much vari- ation in size between the varieties. One peculiarity of the oyster is that it remains just as tender when old as it was when young. The fact that it takes no exercise may explain this. The names Blue Point, Rockaway, and the like, which used to indicate the locality from which the oyster came, now usually mean no more than size. For example, many small oysters are called Blue Points. Oysters stand shipping well. If left in the shell, kept cool, and sprinkled occasionally with brackish water, they will live for weeks without any deterioration. Even when "shucked", if kept cool, they remain edible for eight to ten days, but they keep best if removed from the oyster liquor. Shucked oysters are usually washed carefully in a number of waters, and packed in air-tight receptacles sur- rounded by ice. Care must be taken not to let them be- come frozen. Formerly, they were shipped floated in a tub with a cake of ice. The objections to this practice were twofold. The ice often had to be replaced during the shipping, with the consequent danger of infection. Secondly, oysters lose salts and much flavor if soaked in fresh water, although they gain in size from the absorp- tion of water. Consequently many states require the 212 FOOD STUDY other method of shipment and specify that the oysters sold shall not contain more than ninety per cent water. Because they take up fresh water, oysters are sometimes "fattened" by placing them in the fresh water at the mouth of rivers. It is most necessary that such beds shall not be in water contaminated by sewage, lest the raw oyster become a carrier of typhoid germs, but, even at best, there seems to be no reason for allowing the practice. The notion that oysters cannot be eaten during the months which contain no "r" in their names, May, June, July, and August, has no real foundation except that they are more liable to be contaminated by the bacteria in the water when it is warm. Oysters are not good when they are spawning, but this requires only from three to four weeks and takes place in different species at different seasons. Of course, if not properly kept cool, oysters spoil more quickly in hot than in cold weather. Oysters occasionally appear unusually green. This is sometimes due merely to certain seaweeds or diatoms on which they have been feeding, and does not in any way impair the oyster as an edible product. Only rarely is it due to copper, and probably never in amounts sufficient to prove injurious. REFERENCES U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. Farmers' Bulletin No. 85. "Fish as Food." National Geographical Magazine, Vol. 24 (1913), pp. 257-281. SMITH. "Oysters; the World's Most Valuable Water Crop." QUESTIONS 1. Compare the cost of oyster stew and a cream vegetable soup. 2. Compare the cost and taste of fish chowder made at home with a canned chowder of good brand. 3. Should the crabs frequently found in oysters be used ? REVIEW LESSON 213