FoodNet

Food and freedom

1918

Page 82

Presented as published in 1918. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Fruits commonly rich in pectose or pectin in- clude guavas, quinces, some apples, crab- apples, partially ripened grapes, black cur- rants, and red currants when not over-ripe. There is also pectin in the white portion of orange peel, and in green citron melon. Rasp- berries, elderberries, even blueberries ^ when in good condition, can be made into jelly. Fruits lacking in pectin include strawberries, peaches, cherries, rhubarb. These are not desirable for jelly, unless other fruit juice rich in pectin, such as apple, is added to them. The best jelly is made from slightly acid fruit juice, rich in pectose or pectin, with just the right amount of sugar added to unite with the pectose or pectin, and consequently "jell" properly. If too much sugar is added for the pectin present in the juice, the result will be syrupy rather than solid, with possi- bilities of crystallization; if too little sugar is added, the jelly will be tough. Jelly is apt to be spoiled, however, by using too much rather than too little sugar. The correct pro- portion varies, approximately, from ^ to i cupful of sugar to each cupful of juice. Ex- cept in the case of currant jelly, Ya, is usually the better measure. To prevent waste of sugar and fruit, and to in- sure a good jelly, it is sometimes wise to test ' the collected fruit juice for pectin before making 1 "Principles of Jelly-Making," N.E. Goldthwaite, Ph.D., Bulletin, University of Illinois, Urbana, 111. 200 FOOD AND FREEDOM it up into jelly. The United States Department of Agriculture gives the following test: Put I tablespoonful 95 per cent, grain alcohol and an equal quantity of cooled fruit juice into a glass tumbler; shake gently; let stand for half an hour. The effect of the alcohol is to bring the pectin together in a jelly-like mass. If much pectin is present, it will appear in one mass or clot when poured from the glass; this indicates that equal quantities of juice and sugar may be used — i cupful sugar to i cupful juice. If pectin is separated in small clots, not slip- ping from the glass in one mass, less sugar will be required — ^ cupful sugar to i cupful juice. If pectin is very thin, and much separated, the juice is hardly desirable for jelly-making; it may be improved, however, by cooking apples, the white portion of orange rind, or some green citron melon with it, or adding other fruit juice rich in pectose or pectin. Correct time for boiling the fruit juice and adding the sugar at the proper moment are also important factors. Some jelly may be made complete in 10 or 15 minutes; other jelly may require 20 or 30 minutes. The sugar — heated — should be added to the juice midway in the process, or a little toward the end — as nearly as can be determined.^ The whole process 1 This point is debatable, however, and is best decided by individual preference or success, PRESERVING AND STORING FOOD 201 of jelly-making should be done as quickly as it consistently can, however; to insure this, work in small quantities. Long cooking tends to destroy the pectin; the action of the acid on the sugar during long cooking is also un- favorable, producing in the end a syrup rather than a jelly. ^ Method: Jelly -making incluaes the following steps: I. Extracting the juice from the fruit: