FoodNet

The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

1936

Page 38

Presented as published in 1936. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Sicily is noted for its Marsala, perfect both for drinking and cooking. Its table wines, of which Corvo di Casteldaccia is chiefly exported, are stronger than most; Terre Forte originally bottled by Benedictine monks on the slopes of Mount Etna was said to be 30% alcohol. Perhaps the fiery strength of these vintages comes from the extinct volcanoes on which they are grown, for surely those from tame mountain-sides are milder. Sicily supplies a good many dessert wines, the muscatels, or moscatos, of Salento and Zucca, as well as the sanctified Vino Santo. But Marsala is its greatest contribution; amber-colored and excellent for cooking, in taste it resembles sherry, or sherry and malaga mixed; but since it is reinforced with brandy before being shipped, it is pretty heady for drinking purposes. The scarcity and impurity of water throughout Italy is, of course, responsible for the great consumption of wine. When an Italian travels he doesn't think of drinking water, so the railroad stations are stocked with wines and the big ships equipped with glass wine vats as large as swimming pools, filled to the brim with red and white wine. The little water that is drunk in Italy is bottled at celebrated springs, such as San Pellegrino and Fonte Bracca. Beer has ITALIAN 87 become increasingly popular since Italy took over great hunks of Austria, including Trieste. But unless imported from Munich or Pilsen, it's hardly worth mentioning. As we have seen, some Italian wines are sufficiently strong to serve as hard drinks in themselves; and since a hot climate is not inducive to schnapps, we find comparatively little native brandy drunk. This is called Grappa, not because of the grape from which it is distilled, as we might guess, but after Monte Grappa, a mountain on the Austrian border, where Italy begins to shiver in winter. Of aperitifs the most popular is Cinzano, or Martini and Rossi vermouth, from which our own Martini cocktail got its name. Both of these are aged white Sicilian wines doctored up with bitters or herbs, and because they are sweeter than the French vermouths they do not serve so well in exciting the appetite. Fernet Branca is another life-saver of this sort, and there are other tonic mixtures of wine and quinine, called Quinados. In a fascist country we expect regimentation, but the only strait-jacketing of drinks is the standardization of Strega as the national liqueur. It is distilled of oranges and comes in two colors, one sweet and the other sweeter. Maraschino made in Dalmatia from the celebrated cherries must now be classed, through conquest, among the Italian distillations, although it bears no relation to them and is properly a teutonic kirschwasser, though much more syrupy. Boo\ Two SPANISH g Quiere Usted Comer Bien? (Do you wish to dine well?) MENUS LA LISTA, (OR) LISTA DE LOS MANJARES DISPUESTOS PARA COMER {Bill of fare) ALMUERZA (Luncheon) Huevos en Toledo (Eggs Toledo Style) White Wine Bifes con Pinhones (Little Beef Steaks with Pine Nuts) Red Wine Alcachof as Rellenos Fritas (Fried Stuffed Artichokes) Codornices Asados (Baked Quail) Turbinas (Fried Bread in Sauce) 91 Red Wine Malaga 92 THE EUROPEAN COOKBOOK Queso (Cheese) Cafe ALMUERZA {Luncheon) Huevos con Tomate (Eggs with Tomato) Caldo del Cosido (Broth of the Olla Podrida) Olla Podrida Caza Menor Asada (Small Game Birds Baked)