The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

crock for a day, turning occasionally. Drain and dry. Strain marinating liquid. Prepare giblets, blanching and skinning sweetbreads and brains, and skinning liver and kidneys; chop them together and season. Chop dates, warm Marsala and pour over them. Let stand until wine is absorbed; mix with chopped giblets; stuff the kid and sew up. Cut ligaments at the joints; fold legs close to body and tie securely. Lay salt pork over breast and back and wrap with twine. Place kid in oiled paper bag, lay in roasting pan and bake 1 hour, turning every 15 minutes. Remove paper, add heated marinating liquid to pan and finish baking, basting frequently. Remove pork for the last 15 minutes. Remove twine. Take up. Thicken gravy with flour. If a more delicate flavor is desired, discard marinating liquid and finish last basting with pan liquor and l/2 cup melted butter. A number of years ago a past-master at the art of kid-roasting erected the brick beehive oven of his native land in a vacant lot just off Mulberry Bend in New York, sheltered it with a crude booth, and sold the succulent steaming meat at the dinner hour to neighbors, who hurried home with precious plattersful for waiting families. Gradually his fame spread, and food sophisticates who had lived in Italy began stopping in front of the humble shelter, some of them tarrying to consume their purchases on the spot, with chunks of crunchy hearth bread and black olives. One day an excavator rolled into the lot, and the goat cook disappeared. Inquiries at the corner grocery revealed that he had gone back home to buy the local albergo (inn). VEAL KIDNEYS WITH PARMESAN i calf's kidney i sprig parsley Y4 cup white wine 3 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper Grated Parmesan cheese Yi bay leaf Yi teaspoon sugar 1 small sprig thyme Y% teaspoon cinnamon Cut the kidney in ½-inch slices. Put in saucepan with wine, seasonings, herbs and 1 tablespoon butter; toss over hot fire 5-8 minutes, when most of the liquid will have been absorbed. Transfer to hot platter, cover with Parmesan cheese; mix sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle over. Sprinkle with remaining butter which has been melted. Brown under grill. CALF'S LIVER WITH PARMESAN 1 pound calf's liver, sliced Butter or olive oil Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan 1 teaspoon minced parsley cheese 2 tablespoons green onion, 2 tablespoons grated bread minced crumbs Yi garlic clove, minced Remove skin from liver; season. Mix parsley, green onion, and garlic and sprinkle over. Heat butter to near smoking and quickly brown liver on both sides. Do not over-cook or it will be dry and hard. Mix Parmesan cheese and crumbs. Take up liver on hot fireproof dish; sprinkle with Parmesan mixture, and then with melted butter. Let brown under quick grill. FRITTO MISTO Deep fat or oil for frying FRYING BATTER Yi cup flour Yz cup milk 54 teaspoon salt 1 eggt beaten 1 dash cayenne Mix ingredients in order given. For each person a selection from the following: *4 slice calf's liver 1 cooked artichoke bottom 1 slice sweetbread 1 slice yellow cheese 1 slice calf's brain % slice egg plant, blanched 1 slice kid's kidney 1 flowerette cooked cauliflower or sheep's kidney 1 slice Italian squash (zucchini) 1 slice lamb's fry 1 length cooked celery Salt and pepper