The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

Ay is the name of the district where this province's finest wines are produced, and of course all of them are still, until treated and bottled, doctored with syrup and spirits and made into the export article. We would not recognize as champagnes the names of the district by which the wines are known locally: Ay, Ambonnay, Epernay, Verzenay — the ayes have it! Sillery and Gramant, Bouzy and Dizy, too. Verzy, Sacy, Jouy, Oger, Moussy, Rilly — they sound made up for the Anglo-American trade. Yet these are the names of the natural wines that go into practically all dishes Champenoise. Even the vinegars were originally these. In making the salade Champenoise, composed of sliced boiled potatoes piping hot and uncooked dandelion greens, both champagne and champagne vinegar are mixed in the fat in which bacon is fried, and then the whole panful goes over the salad to wilt the greens and savor the potatoes. Reed birds, even song birds, are sauteed with sweetbreads and mushrooms and then doused with champagne. Desserts consume a lot of the local beverage, but not nearly so much of it as the townspeople of Reims, where the great wine is on draft, both sparkling and still, and is as freely drunk as beer in Hoboken, though in smaller doses. A special sweet pink and white biscuit is made on purpose to nibble with the fluteful of bubbly water, and it is well known that these biscuits of Reims do but increase the thirst for it, even as pretzels do for malt drinks. Lady fingers, too, are almost a convention with this wine, and a bottle is usually accompanied by a plate of them, piled up log-cabin style. If you like, you can drink red champagne, but alas, all of the latter is without sparkle. It is called bruit or nature, either red or white and many Frenchmen will drink nothing else but the natural white with oysters. Bordelais CHICKEN BORDELAISE (Poulet Saute Bordelaise) 1 young chicken, jointed 4 raw artichoke bottoms Y2 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon beef extract 1 teaspoon minced parsley Juice }4 lemon Small artichokes, sauteed Flour for dredging 2 slices bacon, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 shallot, minced Yi cup white wine Lightly dredge chicken with flour. Start frying bacon in olive oil; add shallot and chicken and brown quickly for 5-8 minutes, turning the pieces so as to color on all sides. Add wine and artichoke bottoms, cut in quarters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover closely and simmer slowly 15-25 minutes, uncovering to baste once or twice. Add beef extract, lemon juice and parsley, and shake the pan to mix. Take up, make a gravy of remaining contents of the pan, and pour over, or serve in a boat. Garnish the platter with small artichokes, sauteed. Bresse CHICKEN WITH CRAY FISH BUTTER (Poularde au Beurre d'Ecrivisses) 1 cup bread crumbs Yi pound lean veal Yi pound ham 1 tablespoon minced onion 1 teaspoon minced parsley !/4 teaspoon minced thyme !/4 bay leaf, minced Salt and pepper 1 egg 2 tablespoons butter 1 fat chicken Crayfish Butter 3 dozen crayfish 1 herb bouquet 3 cloves 6 allspice 12 peppercorns 1 onion, sliced 3 tablespoons wine vinegar Salt 2 cups white wine Yi pound fresh butter