The European cookbook for American homes (from Italy, Spain, Portugal and France)

In the region of Bordeaux they make of this "left-over" a dish that comes close to being a "grand plat." Tiny onions browned in butter are added to the boiled beef cut into small pieces. This is seasoned to taste with salt and pepper. A tablespoon of consomme, a glass of dry white wine, garlic, parsley, both well chopped, and a little butter are added, and mixture is cooked for 10 minutes while the sauce reduces to one fourth. Provence LEG OF LAMB OR MUTTON PROVENCAL (Gigot en Potpourri a la Provencale) i cup bread crumbs Salt and pepper Milk 4 onions, chopped 54 pound salt pork, chopped 4 small carrots, chopped Yz teaspoon minced parsley 2 young turnips, chopped Yz teaspoon thyme, minced 2 cups white wine Yz teaspoon fennel, minced 2 cups boiling water 1 egg Fried eggplant slices Garlic cloves, minced Baked tomatoes 1 boned leg mutton or lamb Boiled and buttered onions Moisten crumbs with milk and squeeze dry. Mix with half the salt pork, herbs, egg and garlic to taste. Stuff the bone cavity and sew up. Fry remaining pork in a deep kettle with meat and onions, carrots and turnips until all are delicately browned. Season. Add wine and water. Cover closely and simmer, turning meat occasionally. (Old mutton will take 3 hours.) Serve with fried eggplant, baked tomatoes and boiled onions. This dish may also be served with diced eggplant and green peppers braised in olive oil with chopped tomato and added to the meat a few moments before taking up. This leg of mutton stuffed with pickled pork is only one of four hundred recognized recipes of Provence. A breath-taking array of local dishes, all the way from the sailor's bouillabaisse and couscous in the Arabian restaurants of the old port at Marseilles to the conventionalized plats served a la financiere at the Negresco in Nice. A menu as polyglot as that of New York City, from the chop suey palaces of Chinatown up to the African chitterling dives in Harlem. Yet the chief influence is Italian, characterized by the anchovies that go into everything. Hors d'ceuvres : eggs and olives stuffed with anchovies, tunny in oil, the sausage of Aries, oursins, mullet caviar with oil, onions and eggs chopped together, raw artichokes, anchovy patties. Dishes Provencal: omelet of mussels, eggs poached in olive oil, pot-au-feu, octopus en daube, squid farcies, snail fritters, garlic mayonnaise, whitebait pancake, sheeps' trotters and tripe stewed in strong stock, le fassum Grassois (cabbage and lettuce boiled in broth with milt, pork and rice). The honey of Grasse, scented by perfume-making bees in this town where the most subtle scents are distilled and bottled for export. In the perfume shops fountains jet up rose, violet, heliotrope, carnation and out in the flower-fields lovesick swains commit suicide by crawling into caverns where the scent-makers store their rose petals. Here they fall into a last sweet sleep, suffocated by the overpowering aroma. In such a heaven of odors no wonder the bees turn out honeys to match the boudoir bottles of Quelques Fleurs, Dans la Nuit, Attar of Roses, Pour un Homme, Bellogia. Here you can chose a honey to match your favorite imported French perfume. Candied violets, jasmine, mimosa, rose petals, orange blossoms, too.