In Provence, when the characteristic aroma of anchoade
floats out from the kitchen, the neighbors remark that some
gastronome or other is surely going to enjoy his lunch. An-
choade, like its first cousins, the Neapolitan pissaladeira and
le pain dausse (see recipes), is eaten either as an appetizer or a
whole meal, and of course accompanied by zestful dry wine.
These, because of their antiquity and continued popularity, would
seem to be the original canapes, first enjoyed by gastronomes
while the barbarous tribes of northern Europe were still snatch-
ing their half -raw food out of the ashes of camp-fires.
The Scandinavians and Russians seized upon this canape,
adding to it their own tongue-teasing smoked and pickled fish,
283
284 THE EUROPEAN COOKBOOK
milt, roe and caviar, then handed it back to the French who
standardized it among the hors d'ceuvres. But finally it came to
perfection in these United States, when the need was felt for
some provocative tidbit to accompany our invention, the cock-
tail. Today, indeed, the best canapes in Paris are to be found in
Russian and Scandinavian restaurants and bars catering to the
American taste and purse.
As with entrees, the originality of the chef is displayed in
concocting hors d'ceuvres, and in the swanky restaurants of Paris,
Lyons or Nice sometimes thirty or forty appetite-openers are
passed in separate dishes, and no two of them alike. They range
from chitterlings and anchovies to tiny portions of melon and
salted tarts of chicken blood. The best butters of each Province
are served as hors d'ceuvres, often in a garnished block weighing
from ten to fifty pounds. Other standbys are mussels, sardines,
anchovies, oursins, cockles, pickled cock's combs, roe, tunny,
olives all colors, radishes, salads of everything, hard-boiled eggs,
sausages all sorts, hams cooked and raw, pickled mushrooms,
peppers, artichokes, smoked meats, blood puddings, brains, sweet-
breads, cucumbers, shrimps, galantines, oysters, tongue, onions,
panisses, little pates of liver and almost anything else, the raw
sausage of Aries, pain Dausse, rillettes and rillons of pork, onions,
game patties, fried in pig's blood, tapenade, terrines, prunes in
vinegar, saveloys, celery and celeriac, in fact, anything and every-
thing tasty, but chiefly local salads, sausages, pickles and garnish-
ings, in fact, a ten-course dinner in miniature, generously descrip-
tive of the great dishes to follow it.
Picardy L£ pAJN DAUSEE) QR
THE DAUSSADE
Cut a loaf of hearth bread lengthwise in thick slices. Spread
with sweet butter. Crush sliced onions and lettuce leaves to-
FRENCH 285
gether with rock salt in cream and a little vinegar✪ Pain Dausse. Pour this,
juice and all, over the buttered bread, spread evenly, cut in finger
slices and serve.
In Picardy this hors d'oeuvres en gross is often the whole
meal of the peasant, himself as open-faced as the farm-bread
sandwich of his invention. Or it makes a stimulating appetizer
to a Picardian feast of tripe soup, leek pie, stuffed boned duck of
Amiens, all washed down with copious draughts of the cider
of Thierache.
Provence N£W YEAR,g £VE TIDBITS
(Bonne-Bouche d'une Bonne Annee)
Page 119 · 1 recipe record on this page
Presented as published in 1936. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
In Provence, when the characteristic aroma of anchoade floats out from the kitchen, the neighbors remark that some gastronome or other is surely going to enjoy his lunch. Anchoade, like its first cousins, the Neapolitan pissaladeira and le pain dausse (see recipes), is eaten either as an appetizer or a whole meal, and of course accompanied by zestful dry wine. These, because of their antiquity and continued popularity, would seem to be the original canapes, first enjoyed by gastronomes while the barbarous tribes of northern Europe were still snatching their half -raw food out of the ashes of camp-fires.
The Scandinavians and Russians seized upon this canape, adding to it their own tongue-teasing smoked and pickled fish,
milt, roe and caviar, then handed it back to the French who standardized it among the hors d'oeuvres. But finally it came to perfection in these United States, when the need was felt for some provocative tidbit to accompany our invention, the cocktail. Today, indeed, the best canapes in Paris are to be found in Russian and Scandinavian restaurants and bars catering to the American taste and purse.
As with entrees, the originality of the chef is displayed in concocting hors d'ceuvres, and in the swanky restaurants of Paris, Lyons or Nice sometimes thirty or forty appetite-openers are passed in separate dishes, and no two of them alike. They range from chitterlings and anchovies to tiny portions of melon and salted tarts of chicken blood. The best butters of each Province are served as hors d'oeuvres, often in a garnished block weighing from ten to fifty pounds. Other standbys are mussels, sardines, anchovies, oursins, cockles, pickled cock's combs, roe, tunny, olives all colors, radishes, salads of everything, hard-boiled eggs, sausages all sorts, hams cooked and raw, pickled mushrooms, peppers, artichokes, smoked meats, blood puddings, brains, sweetbreads, cucumbers, shrimps, galantines, oysters, tongue, onions, panisses, little pates of liver and almost anything else, the raw sausage of Aries, pain Dausse, rillettes and rillons of pork, onions, game patties, fried in pig's blood, tapenade, terrines, prunes in vinegar, saveloys, celery and celeriac, in fact, anything and everything tasty, but chiefly local salads, sausages, pickles and garnishings, in fact, a ten-course dinner in miniature, generously descriptive of the great dishes to follow it.
Picardy (LE PAIN DAUSEE) OR
THE DAUSSADE
Cut a loaf of hearth bread lengthwise in thick slices. Spread with sweet butter. Crush sliced onions and lettuce leaves to-
together with rock salt in cream and a little vinegar. Pour this, juice and all, over the buttered bread, spread evenly, cut in finger slices and serve.
In Picardy this hors d'oeuvres en gros is often the whole meal of the peasant, himself as open-faced as the farm-bread sandwich of his invention. Or it makes a stimulating appetizer to a Picardian feast of tripe soup, leek pie, stuffed boned duck of Amiens, all washed down with copious draughts of the cider of Thierache.
Provence NEW YEAR'S EVE TIDBITS
(Bonne-Bouche d'une Bonne Annee)
Records on this page
Pain Dausse