So also is the chef. Young Daniel Hubert first trained with his father, a restaurateur in northern France, before serving his formal appren- ticeship which led him to kitchens in Geneva, Paris, and finally the Sofitel, where he has been head chef since its opening in 1975. Chef Daniel rules his kitchen in the style in which he was schooled, the clas- sic regime of Escoffier. “It’s like the Bible: we don’t ask why it’s done like this, but we all do it. There are really no secrets in cooking. Even nouvelle cuisine is not new. Someone has always done it before—it’s the touch of the person who prepares it that makes the difference.” Vive la différence at Le Cafe. Half of the menu features classic French dishes such as sole bonne femme, sweetbreads with a Medici garnish, and coquille St. Jacques. The remaining courses are changed weekly to honor a special region of France and to take advantage of the seasonal seafood flown in from the Continent like langoustines, scallops, and escargots. “Even the Dover sole comes from the French side of the chan- nel,” Daniel proudly states. To complement this exquisite cuisine, General Manager John Lehodey frequently tours his French homeland to purchase boutique wines, many of which are specially bottled for the hotel. John explains, “We try to authentically represent every region in France; we pride ourselves on those wines.” Undoubtedly, they also pride themselves on the skill of the staff. There is more than a touch of showmanship in the tableside presenta- tions, from slicing of patés off a pheasant-dressed display to skillful boning of a trout, from preparation of a dazzling flambé to careful pilot- ing of a dessert trolley. The etiquette affirms that, at Le Cafe, diners ex- perience a world apart. L’hotel Sofitel 4501 West 78th Street Bloomington i N Go ‘s LE GAPE ROYAL BALLOTTINE DE CANETON 1 (4-pound) duck 2 tablespoons minced onion 1 pound lard 2 teaspoons minced parsley Y4 cup cognac 2 cloves garlic, minced Y2_ teaspoon grated nutmeg Y4 cup port or Madeira Salt and pepper 2 small eggs 1 packet Knox gelatin 2 tablespoons pistachios 1 cupcanned beef consommé or truffles 6 ounces veal 6 large leaves Boston lettuce 6 ounces pork 12 cornichons 2 tablespoons minced shallots✪ Ballottine de Caneton A day or two in advance, debone the duck by placing it breast side down on a cutting board and making a deep incision the length of the duck on one side of the backbone. Loosen the meat from the car- cass by scraping close to the bone with the point of a sharp paring knife. Carefully pull meat away from the bone, cutting through the cartilage between back and breastbone. Debone one side of the duck to the breastbone, then repeat the process on the other side, taking care not to tear the skin. Remove the backbone and the bones from the breast. To remove the leg and wing bones, cut around the joints and scrape the meat down the bones. Carefully remove the skin and refrigerate for later use. Set aside the meat. Discard the bones, carcass, and giblets. . Cut the duck meat and one-fourth of the lard into thick strips. Place in a bowl and pour 2 tablespoons of the cognac over. Sprinkle with “4 teaspoon of the nutmeg and season with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Let marinate overnight in refrigerator. . The next day, make aspic by sprinkling the gelatin over the surface of 2 cup of the consommé; let soak 3 minutes without stirring. Bring the remaining ¥2 cup consommé toa boil and add to the soaked gela- tin. Stir until dissolved; let cool. . Ina meat grinder or food processor, grind the remaining lard to-

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So also is the chef. Young Daniel Hubert first trained with his father, a restaurateur in northern France, before serving his formal appren- ticeship which led him to kitchens in Geneva, Paris, and finally the Sofitel, where he has been head chef since its opening in 1975. Chef Daniel rules his kitchen in the style in which he was schooled, the clas- sic regime of Escoffier. “It’s like the Bible: we don’t ask why it’s done like this, but we all do it. There are really no secrets in cooking. Even nouvelle cuisine is not new. Someone has always done it before—it’s the touch of the person who prepares it that makes the difference.” Vive la différence at Le Cafe. Half of the menu features classic French dishes such as sole bonne femme, sweetbreads with a Medici garnish, and coquille St. Jacques. The remaining courses are changed weekly to honor a special region of France and to take advantage of the seasonal seafood flown in from the Continent like langoustines, scallops, and escargots. “Even the Dover sole comes from the French side of the chan- nel,” Daniel proudly states. To complement this exquisite cuisine, General Manager John Lehodey frequently tours his French homeland to purchase boutique wines, many of which are specially bottled for the hotel. John explains, “We try to authentically represent every region in France; we pride ourselves on those wines.” Undoubtedly, they also pride themselves on the skill of the staff. There is more than a touch of showmanship in the tableside presenta- tions, from slicing of patés off a pheasant-dressed display to skillful boning of a trout, from preparation of a dazzling flambé to careful pilot- ing of a dessert trolley. The etiquette affirms that, at Le Cafe, diners ex- perience a world apart. L’hotel Sofitel 4501 West 78th Street Bloomington i N Go ‘s LE GAPE ROYAL BALLOTTINE DE CANETON 1 (4-pound) duck 2 tablespoons minced onion 1 pound lard 2 teaspoons minced parsley Y4 cup cognac 2 cloves garlic, minced Y2_ teaspoon grated nutmeg Y4 cup port or Madeira Salt and pepper 2 small eggs 1 packet Knox gelatin 2 tablespoons pistachios 1 cupcanned beef consommé or truffles 6 ounces veal 6 large leaves Boston lettuce 6 ounces pork 12 cornichons 2 tablespoons minced shallots A day or two in advance, debone the duck by placing it breast side down on a cutting board and making a deep incision the length of the duck on one side of the backbone. Loosen the meat from the car- cass by scraping close to the bone with the point of a sharp paring knife. Carefully pull meat away from the bone, cutting through the cartilage between back and breastbone. Debone one side of the duck to the breastbone, then repeat the process on the other side, taking care not to tear the skin. Remove the backbone and the bones from the breast. To remove the leg and wing bones, cut around the joints and scrape the meat down the bones. Carefully remove the skin and refrigerate for later use. Set aside the meat. Discard the bones, carcass, and giblets. . Cut the duck meat and one-fourth of the lard into thick strips. Place in a bowl and pour 2 tablespoons of the cognac over. Sprinkle with “4 teaspoon of the nutmeg and season with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Let marinate overnight in refrigerator. . The next day, make aspic by sprinkling the gelatin over the surface of 2 cup of the consommé; let soak 3 minutes without stirring. Bring the remaining ¥2 cup consommé toa boil and add to the soaked gela- tin. Stir until dissolved; let cool. . Ina meat grinder or food processor, grind the remaining lard to-

Dining in--Minneapolis/St. Paul cookbook