Dining in--Minneapolis/St. Paul cookbook

Tor trained as a chef in his native Oslo and graduated at the top of his class in Lausann’s hotel academies. He toured the world several times over on Norwegian luxury liners, “in charge of everything between the bridge and rear deck,” including the elegant meals demanded by discerning voyagers. But in 1968, he and his bride Kristine decided to move to America, to Minneapolis. Tor’s skills were eagerly sought by hotels, clubs, and restaurants, but until La Tortue opened in April, 1981, they did not consider Minneapolis home. They selected a lively locale in the heart of the city for La Tortue— “the turtle.” They renovated an old warehouse, relying on their own good taste. “People say it looks just like our living room,” smiles Kristine. Although homey and unpretentious, the furnishings are at the same time exquisite. The floral print on the walls of the foyer is repeated on the hand-carved chairs in the dining room. Brilliant mirrored columns rise above soft banquettes, creating an air of elegance. The lace curtains and chandeliers were imported from France, as were the carved entrance portal and antique armoire that houses La Tortue’s vintage wines. Like the decor, the menu is reflected in the hors d’oeuvres display of Gravlaks, herring, goose liver paté, and fried Camembert sparked with lingonberry sauce. Both nouvelle and heartier Continental specialties of French Chef Paul Laubignat are in evidence—a garlic-seasoned mousse of escargots, duck breast salad, whole roasted chicken anointed with morels and cream, fresh eel filled with pike mousse, and sweetbreads on a spinach base. With the unusual combination of sophistication and simplicity which defines La Tortue, the menu features a special creation which honors the restaurant’s name—fresh turtle soup served with tortoise-shaped croutons. Butler Square West 100 North 6th Street Minneapolis GRAVLAKS 2 pounds center cut of fresh 1 tablespoon oil salmon (Atlantic, sockeye, 2 teaspoons crushed white coho, or Chinook) peppercorns Y% cup salt 1 cucumber, sliced Y2 cup sugar 3 lemons, cut in wedges 1 bunch fresh dill, ay GRAVLAKS SAUCE (see chopped (approximately) next page) 1 tablespoon sherry . Two days in advance, scale and debone the salmon, cutting the fish into two pieces along the line of the backbone. Do not rinse the pieces, but wipe them dry with paper towels. Mix the salt and the sugar and rub the fish with one-fourth of the mixture. . Sprinkle another one-fourth of the salt/sugar mixture and some of the dill in a deep baking dish. Place one piece of salmon in the dish skin side down and sprinkle generously with the dill, reserving the rest for garnish. Sprinkle with the sherry, oil, crushed peppercorns, and another one-fourth of the salt/sugar mixture. . Cover with the second piece of salmon, skin side up. If the pieces do not match in shape, place the thick side against the thin side. Sprinkle with the remaining salt/sugar mixture. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and a light weight such as a chopping board. The fish will “leach out” in 4 to 5 hours and the fluid should be poured off. . Refrigerate at least 48 hours, turning the salmon pieces around at least four to five times during that period. (The cured salmon can be stored in the refrigerator and, if well chilled, should keep for two to three weeks.) . To serve, cut into thin slices. Garnish with the sliced cucumber, remaining dill, lemon wedges, and Gravlaks Sauce. Although recipes differ in amount of salt and sugar to use, the one-half sugar to one-quarter salt ratio is typical. I believe this proportion produces an ideal cure with only the faintest suggestion of a sweet flavor.