FoodNet

Dining in--Minneapolis/St. Paul cookbook

1900

Page 41 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1900. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
eee . foypv enlist S fudetsseHaOieas « ase at Ere “weayie Quinine : TASS be Ts TAS) “Aa riley ep were TTR - talliutis ewe 7 ufrrtivns be x (i) ame ne Raa a cay Dé Piet Bee 6 ¢ ee Mee : ner S —-. ne SFiliis me | oe, : ry Yvaee ae 2a Te) > _ me (te “ce fe « 4 . © ti: lors um sieen ae soqed. arisen = : mv = cenit ott DA, dig 08 volow acs f ants 7 array ni Ealtey Wines) > Se sys ie Lad, guy ry : ride Pen P eee . Saleh se At 25 rea. wed renal widod: te or ib) aaa. G ethay Aue) ren ok, Ge Pasar tet eee bea a Bisse Nor cae: .* Aoabs ie ney. Y eee SVG is ide <¢ 7 Snip ee rates Vos oie pe tewates ete : ees chad civic DAY, allie tableeh agit “ereo a) at Fis can > 6g Dinner for Six Moules a la Mariniére Gigot d’Agneau Roti aux Aromates Mixed Green Salad Reine de Saba Espresso Beverages: Before dinner—Vermouth Cassis With the Moules—Freemark Abbey Napa Chardonnay, 1979 With the Gigot d’Agneau—Chateau Cos d’Estournel, Haut-Médoc, 1978 After the Espresso—Martell Cognac Cordon Bleu Lynne Alpert, Proprietor THE NEWERENCERGAPE he New French Cafe was opened in 1977 by two women with no ' formal training in cooking, no management experience, and no background in marketing. The part of town was wrong, the staff all new and untrained, and the cuisine a far cry from the steakhouse staples of the day. But despite the odds, the New French Cafe became an instant success. “We felt our idea was strong enough that people would come to us. We knew we'd be successful—but we had no idea how quickly!” admits Lynne Alpert, now sole owner. “Today food is more direct and straightforward,” she declares, which enables her to serve food which has what she calls a “rustic edge”: “I don’t like a purée. I like to really taste the ingredients with no artifice.” In keeping with that mandate, freshness and quality define the cuisine at the New French Cafe—insistence on imported oils and vinegars, specially selected chocolate, and a fine wine list that the self- taught proprietor has assembled. But Lynne considers factors other than these as well. “Nouvelle cuisine presumes a lot of money, both on the part of people eating and cooking. It uses only the choicest parts of everything. Now we are paying attention to the rest, and our menus reflect these changes. When we cut a veal chop off the loin, we'll use the trimmings for a stock or terrine.” Lynne has assembled a talented and loyal kitchen staff to whom she gives the reins to devise the menus that change with the seasons. Here there is no splintering of assignments into prep cook, sauté chef, or saucier. Each cook is a complete craftsman who takes resonsibility for each order from start to well-sauced finish. “That's part of the pleasure of cooking,” Lynne states. “I give them the opportunity to choose to make something themselves: ‘This is the fish of the day; how shall we use it?’ We don’t do the same thing twice. One nice thing that happens at this cafe: the menu and the food change with the experience of the people who work here.” The decor is deliberately simple: bare walls and overhead ducts given a slick of white paint; baskets and tubs of fresh blooms in the storefront windows; an open-to-view kitchen and roaring espresso machine that adds to the hum of activity which starts with an early morning’s steam- ing croissant and continues through a candlelit dinner hour. 128 North Fourth Street Minneapolis 120 THE NEW ERENGE CAPE MOULES A LA MARINIERE 6 quarts mussels Ya teaspoon thyme Ya cup minced green onions 6 tablespoons butter Ya cup minced shallots 2 cups light dry white wine Y2 cup chopped parsley French bread (optional) Y2 bay leafMoules à la Marinière . If using uncultured mussels, scrub thoroughly under cold running water. Cut off the beards and scrape off barnacles. Soak mussels in cold water at least 2 hours, discarding any that float. Drain.