Mix the grated rind of two lemons and one orange with one quart of mixed milk and cream and partially freeze. 200 FRUIT RECIPES Have ready a syrup made of the juice of two large lemons and one orange and a pint of sugar✪ Lemon Ice Cream. When cool add this to the partly frozen cream and finish freezing. (More sugar may be preferred.) CANDIED LEMON PEEL See Orange Chips. CHAPTER XV THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE Citrus aurantium bigaradia: Rutacee 6 ec: is no edible fruit in America which both grows so abundantly (through the southern—the semi- tropical portion) and is at the same time so little known or understood and in consequence so little appreciated or considered adapted to practical-usage as is the wild or sour (as it is known in the South), or the Seville orange, as it is properly termed. And this fact seems the more strange the further one looks into it, since Americans travel so extensively and this orange is so highly prized for nu- merous purposes throughout Europe and the British Isles (to say nothing of other countries and continents), whether there grown or merely imported. This may perhaps be explained by the fact that as a nation Americans are eaters and drinkers of sweet stuffs and that to be told a fruit is sour is to consider it uninviting and uninteresting even as to name: something to “forget.’’ And so, when the use of the Seville orange is read of (with no special mention of its acidity) it is not connected with the ‘‘sour’’ orange; it is already truly forgotten with other disagreeable matters, and it is taken for granted that the Seville is some variety of the common, sweet orange. There zs a ‘Sweet Seville,”’ but it is never mentioned by those really familiar with oranges without the distinguishing adjective, for it is a mere namesake and all sweet oranges (unless we except the mandarin-tangerine group, whose history is rather indef- initely blurred in the hazy mass of ancient Japanese and 201 202 FRUIT RECIPES Chinese pomology) are parvenues beside the sour or Seville orange. Even the Oriental varieties just mentioned and the sweet orange trees which forcenturies have been found grow- ingon the Himalayas probably came from the sour stock origi- nally,so evidence and opinion seem to emphatically indicate. The Moors took this orange to Spain. From just what particular spot they may first have imported it, it is difficult to say at this distance of time, but from that period (the be- ginning of the eighth century, A. D.) until into the fifteenth century, the sweet orange was not known or cultivated in Europe while the sour orange was greatly cultivated. The Greeks and Romans seem to have known nothing of any variety of orange and so, although biographical sketches of Adam, Eve, and the Grecian and Roman gods may by scoffers be classed irreverently as equally and only alle- gorical,one fact may be depended upon (!) that, as compared with their first parents, the Europeans were hopelessly matter-of-fact, since the apple of Paris was literally an apple, while botanists declare the forbidden fruit of the Garden to have been undoubtedly an orange or other mem- ber of the citrus family—whether true or typical. (The admirers of the chiramoya claim that fruit as Eden’s temp- tation, but neither this fact nor those people who would decry the Seville as sufficient to drive anyone from Paradise need be considered.) The imported Moorish orange was planted in great num- ber in and about the city of Seville, singly and in groves, and immediately so flourished and grew in favour that it became widely known as the ‘‘Seville” orange and by this name is still recognised throughout Europe where—in Italy and other countries, as well as Spain—it is a commercial crop of importance, whether exported in natural form or otherwise (the peel, dried or candied, or having undergone distillation for flavouring or medicinal purposes).

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Mix the grated rind of two lemons and one orange with one quart of mixed milk and cream and partially freeze. 200 FRUIT RECIPES Have ready a syrup made of the juice of two large lemons and one orange and a pint of sugar. When cool add this to the partly frozen cream and finish freezing. (More sugar may be preferred.) CANDIED LEMON PEEL See Orange Chips. CHAPTER XV THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE Citrus aurantium bigaradia: Rutacee 6 ec: is no edible fruit in America which both grows so abundantly (through the southern—the semi- tropical portion) and is at the same time so little known or understood and in consequence so little appreciated or considered adapted to practical-usage as is the wild or sour (as it is known in the South), or the Seville orange, as it is properly termed. And this fact seems the more strange the further one looks into it, since Americans travel so extensively and this orange is so highly prized for nu- merous purposes throughout Europe and the British Isles (to say nothing of other countries and continents), whether there grown or merely imported. This may perhaps be explained by the fact that as a nation Americans are eaters and drinkers of sweet stuffs and that to be told a fruit is sour is to consider it uninviting and uninteresting even as to name: something to “forget.’’ And so, when the use of the Seville orange is read of (with no special mention of its acidity) it is not connected with the ‘‘sour’’ orange; it is already truly forgotten with other disagreeable matters, and it is taken for granted that the Seville is some variety of the common, sweet orange. There zs a ‘Sweet Seville,”’ but it is never mentioned by those really familiar with oranges without the distinguishing adjective, for it is a mere namesake and all sweet oranges (unless we except the mandarin-tangerine group, whose history is rather indef- initely blurred in the hazy mass of ancient Japanese and 201 202 FRUIT RECIPES Chinese pomology) are parvenues beside the sour or Seville orange. Even the Oriental varieties just mentioned and the sweet orange trees which forcenturies have been found grow- ingon the Himalayas probably came from the sour stock origi- nally,so evidence and opinion seem to emphatically indicate. The Moors took this orange to Spain. From just what particular spot they may first have imported it, it is difficult to say at this distance of time, but from that period (the be- ginning of the eighth century, A. D.) until into the fifteenth century, the sweet orange was not known or cultivated in Europe while the sour orange was greatly cultivated. The Greeks and Romans seem to have known nothing of any variety of orange and so, although biographical sketches of Adam, Eve, and the Grecian and Roman gods may by scoffers be classed irreverently as equally and only alle- gorical,one fact may be depended upon (!) that, as compared with their first parents, the Europeans were hopelessly matter-of-fact, since the apple of Paris was literally an apple, while botanists declare the forbidden fruit of the Garden to have been undoubtedly an orange or other mem- ber of the citrus family—whether true or typical. (The admirers of the chiramoya claim that fruit as Eden’s temp- tation, but neither this fact nor those people who would decry the Seville as sufficient to drive anyone from Paradise need be considered.) The imported Moorish orange was planted in great num- ber in and about the city of Seville, singly and in groves, and immediately so flourished and grew in favour that it became widely known as the ‘‘Seville” orange and by this name is still recognised throughout Europe where—in Italy and other countries, as well as Spain—it is a commercial crop of importance, whether exported in natural form or otherwise (the peel, dried or candied, or having undergone distillation for flavouring or medicinal purposes).

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