FoodNetArchive

Fruit recipes

1907

Page 60

Presented as published in 1907. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The huckleberry or whortleberry, the blueberry, bil- berry, or blaeberry, and cranberry are related, comprising in reality different groups of the Ericacee, or Heath family, though there is a vast difference between the mild, dark- hued, blue-coated berries and the crimson, acid variety of whortleberry and cranberry. The latest classification of these (F. V. Colville) is as follows: huckleberry: Gay- lussacia; blueberry: Vaccinium; cranberry: Oxycoccus; farkleberry: Batodendron; deerberry: Polycodium. The whortleberries and huckle- or blueberries (‘‘beyond New England commonly called huckleberries’’—Gray) make excellent jellies and jams, may be dried and preserved otherwise, and in some parts of Europe a spirituous liquor is manufactured from them. A goodly per cent. of citric acid is contained in some varieties of whortleberries. The cranberry, with its decided acids, has marked and valuable characteristics. It contains a large per cent. of citric acid and iron as well; is therefore strongly tonic and purifying and particularly grateful on long voyages or in the winter season when other berries are difficult or impossible to procure in fresh condition. From the Arctic’s southern limits cranberries reach southward, instinctively being used in these colder regions as an anti- scorbutic. In Great Britain they form part of ship-stores for the same purpose. They are also excellent used ex- ternally, as poultices, in reducing inflammation. In Siberia and Russia wine is made from them and in Scandinavian A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 141i countries the peasants make both a business and a pleasure of gathering cranberries in the nightless days of their summer season, drying them (generally on endless strings) against the darker, colder season to come. They may also be preserved in clear water in jars or bottles, uncooked, and cooked of course variously. THE MULBERRY (Moraceae) This berry is seldom appreciated, almost never ranked according to its true value as a fruit, possibly from its very convenience of accessibility and manipulation. Had it thorns it might be better loved. It was long ago taken from Persia to Italy and in Europe as well as Asia it has always been highly esteemed for its leaves as food for silk-worms and its wood for posts. For silk-worms the Moris alba (white mulberry) is chiefly known, though the black mulberry is also valued for the purpose. The black (Moris nigra) and the red (Moris rubra) mul- berries are sources of food and drink not to be despised; for these purposes, indeed, the white mulberry is not to be mentioned beside them. The smaller black or red mulberry, though not so acceptable just from the tree, makes, like the large, black, luscious French mulberry (which is so delicious uncooked), most desirable jelly, preserves, and drinks. It is one of the most wholesome of berries, con- taining much potash—therefore recommended for throat troubles as well as for internal complaints—and is one of the richest, purest, most concentrated sugar manufactories among fruits, in quantity of grape sugar outranked only by the grape and cherry, the grape having from 10.6 to 19; the cherrry 10.79; mulberry 9.19. (U. 8. Dispensatory). The mulberry is laxative, its juice grateful in fevers when strained from the seeds, and its tartaric acid refreshing in health. 142 FRUIT RECIPES THE ELDERBERRY The elderberry is one of the richest of the whole collection of berries in legendary lore, in mystical and practical charm, each part, from roots to flowers, giving out some- thing of value as food or medicine, being possessed of indisputable medical properties, of remarkable qualities for flavouring or colouring, and as a food—in jelly, jams, etc., or wine, having unique elements of excellence.