FoodNetArchive

Fruit recipes

1907

Page 112

Presented as published in 1907. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
There are several methods in vogue for this, a California treatment of them (Dr. Eisen’s) reported by the Depart- ment of Agriculture (Div. of Pomol., Bul. No. 1) being the following: ‘‘When the figs began to wilt and show small white seams they were cut from the tree by means of scissors or a knife, then carefully placed on trays similar to raisin trays. (An improvement is here suggested of nailing laths to form longitudinal ribs across the tray-bottoms.) By placing the figs with the eye elevated on the rib the sugary contents are prevented from leaking out. . . . The figs are now placed in the sun to dry turned every day, at first separately by hand, but when partially dried were turned .. . as we turn raisin trays. Every night they were covered over. . . . The figs are sufficiently dry when they show the same dryness in the morning as the evening. . . . If not sufficiently dried they will puff up and spoil. It is, however, a great danger to overdry the figs. Such figs will get a cooked and earthy taste. . . . It took from five to twelve days to dry the figs, according to the weather. THE FIG 269 When dry they may be dumped into sweat boxes for a few days but the better way is to dip and pack them right away. Now prepare a kettle or tub with boiling water, in which is put enough common unrefined rock salt, such as is used for cattle; table salt will not do. . . . Sea water may be preferable. . . . About three big handfuls of rock salt to one gallon of water is enough. When the salt is dis- solved and the water is again boiling immerse the figs for two seconds; immediately afterwards thumb the figs, and work the eye of the fig downward and the stalk end up- ward. . . . This process is necessary. First, it dis- tributes the thicker skin around the eye of the fig evenly, and in eating we thus get equal parts of the thicker and thinner skin. Secondly, it places the fine skin of the stalk end on top, and when the figs are packed and pressed they present a beautiful smooth surface. I believe the dipping of the figs in boiling salt water may be dispensed with if the figs are sufficiently pliable without it. But it is absolutely indispensable to dip the figs in salt water, and during the thumbing of the figs the hands of the packer must be constantly moistened by salt water or the sugar will stick to the fingers and make the operation almost impossible. . . . The figs taste at first exceedingly salt . . . but after a few days the salt works into the fig and gives it a peculiar appetising taste, counteracting the excessive sweetness. “The heavy pressing of the figs, which is always so strong that it causes them to burst at the stalk end is much objected to by the consumer, as it evidently defaces the fig. But, nevertheless, this compression is absolutely necessary. It prevents insects from entering between them and it prevents the air entering, thus drying out the fig . . .” A second California method reported (Mr. Burnham, . 270 FRUIT RECIPES of Riverside) was to pick the figs when wilted and while yet green to treat it to ‘‘a strong sulphur bath,” then put- ting in the sun to dry, after this sweating it in sacks, then packing.