FoodNetArchive

Cooking for profit

1886

Page 353

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Five pennyworth of beef would give more strength than ten plates of melted ice and sauce congealed. But the worn out stomachs of such people crave high seasoning and strong taste, which the beef would not give them. So they take away in bits of newspaper a franc's worth of wretch- ed dainties, and eat them with a scowl and curse against " the rich." The three upper floors are full of bunks, similar to those on a ship, covered over with clean white linen. A charge of ten cents is made for each one of these beds a night, in- cluding a warm bath, which is made a necessity by the rules of the insti- tution. Breakfast is furnished for three and five cents, and dinner for ten cents. Each lodger is compelled to register his name, give age, occupa- tion, and tell whether married or single before he can get a ticket for a bed. This is the only institution of its kind in the city, but efforts are being made to establish more as soon as possible. As the house is self- supporting money invested is not lost, but pays a good percentage. On the bills of fare in New York Italian restaurant's coffee is i cent per cup; steaks, chops and stews, 3 cents; pastry, 3 cents; beer, 2 cents; whisky and brandy, 3 cents. These places are thronged daily by persons of all nationalities. Pope Leo XIII. daily dines at a cost of 37 cents, on a simple soup, a little bread, a leg or wing of a chicken, six or seven grapes and one pear, with a big glass of the best Marcia. No. 9 DoYERS Street, this city, may aptly be called a hotel for the extremely poor. It is under the management of the Sanitary Aid Society of the Tenth Ward. Board- ers are entertained at nominal prices. So-called English chop houses are springing up in all parts of the city of New York. Their popu- larity increases constantly. Three or four years ago there was only half a dozen good chop houses. Now there are a score or more and they are all of them flourishing. The slapbang, greasy, noisy and rushing restaurant, with its dozens of tables, soiled linen, slouchy negro waiters and miserable kitchen, has given way to neat and commodious little chop houses, with well polished tables, quiet waiters and excellent cooks. They sell nothing but chops, steaks, potatoes, beer and ale, and the service is characterized by cleanliness and promptness. The prices are quite reasonable. 210 COOKING FOR PROFIT. The five-cent lunch places in lower Broadway, N. Y., are getting more numerous and more popular. The proprietor of one of them said to a Tribune XQ.'^QX\.Qr\ " For nearly half a century cheapness in New York, for nearly everything, but especially eating, has been synonymous with dirt. It was my idea in opening this place to make it absolutely clean and neat, the food wholesome and tooth- some, and the price so reasonable that I should get not only the multi- tude vv^ho are obliged to buy five-cent lunches, but that other class who pay a higher price to get something clean. I hit it, and so have the other places of this kind. I have enlarged my place twice since coming here, and shall enlarge it again as soon as the present tenants vacate a room next to me."